Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS: 35.84324, -106.14877
FA: A. Miller
Page Views: 148 total · 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Jul 6, 2024
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: This crag is on private land. Please respect the landowners by making sure to stay on the main approach trails and the climbers path at the base of the cliff. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a good route for strong folks that don't have much endurance as the hard sections are short and fun but punctuated by generous stances. It also has one of each characteristic section of the classic basalt features that BRW has to offer: the light red patina of vertical face climbing; then some buff-colored patina of the stem corner; a brief section of the dark matrix basalt with red phenocryst-bubbles pulling through the first roof; and finally the rippled, laminar, black patina headwall, like water flowing uphill, providing a wild and awesome bit of pulling and dancing to the anchor.

To start, scramble easily up a black streaked corner/chimney system to wide perch atop the pillar as for Mississippi Moon. The first bolt should be easily reached from atop the pillar block so you are well protected when you step off. Taking the left line of bolts, arcing delicately up and left through three bolts of thin and perfect face-climbing. Then step left again and into the corner using some generous solid blocks, easily avoiding crumbly rock well below you, to some casual stances. Stem up a fun corner, tackle the short roof overlap, and gain a generous stance below the flawless upper headwall with an evil thin crack running trough it. Take a good look at the feet here, clip the high bolt (reachable for short people too), look at the feet again, maybe a third time, and go for it to the anchor!

Location Suggest change

Right side of the Los Rios sector, start up an easy 3rd class corner in black lichen-coated rock, just left of the scramble ramp for Mississippi Moon. Alternatively, you could start on the right side too, it doesn't really make much difference so long as your belayer has a comfy spot.

Protection Suggest change

11 bolts, one fixed draw.

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