Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
GPS: 37.738, -119.59215
FA: Scott Burke 1991
Page Views: 144 total · 7/month
Shared By: j wharton on May 10, 2024
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This is an excellent, if neglected face route well right of the Chapel Wall's popular sectors. With minimal traffic it might become a much loved four star classic. 

Notes: Lots to like here!

Seemed very approachable for the grade by Valley standards, with friendly bolting, and good rests between cruxes. 

Ten minute approach. 

Morning shade until 1pm-ish in the spring, and it seems to catch a fair bit of wind.

The bolts have been mostly replaced halfway through pitch four, but it looks like the pitch four anchor needs updating. (We did not climb the second half of pitch four.)

Would be wise to take a wire brush. The route is not exceptionally dirty, but it does need some brushing love.

Although you can likely rap the route with a single 60m, it's probably easier to bring a tagline and rap directly to the ground from the top of pitch two. 

There is potential for a direct start up the wall below the pitch two anchor on attractive looking knobs and seams. This might make the route better and more sustained.

Linking pitch one and two is very reasonable, and perhaps preferable since the hardest climbing on pitch two is right off the belay.

A small stick clip is nice to expedite cryptic chalk-less cruxes.

Pitch 1: 25 meters 5.12 Start up a mossy flake/ramp to get to a high first bolt. A couple of tiny cams in a flake on the right can protect a bit of 5.10 to the first bolt. Bolts and a boulder problem through a bulge lead to a bolted anchor. 

P2: 30 meters 5.11+ Some tech climbing off the belay leads to cool diorite knobs, and easier gear protected climbing (.3 to .75) looping right around flakes up to a horizontal traverse left to a very comfortable belay ledge. 

P3: 25 meters 5.13- A tough boulder problem over a roof on amazing knobs leads to more tech climbing. A couple of small cams (.2 to .4) protect the final mantel to the anchor.

P4: 30 meters 5.13 Excellent fingery climbing up slashing seams leads to a final bolt. At the last bolt foot traverse hard right on a dike rail, and *pull into a scoop. Continue up flakes and corners on gear to an obvious anchor. (*We didn't climb this part. Looks like it will benefit from a new anchor, and a heavy brushing. Perhaps lowering the anchor position will be better to avoid seasonal dirtiness?) 

Location Suggest change

Right side of the Chapel Wall. Locate a "clean" buttress to the right of Chockblock Chimney. Well right of Cosmic Debris. 

Protection Suggest change

Primarily bolts, but include a small rack from tiny to .75

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