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Routes in The Chapel Wall

Berlin Wall S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chockblock Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Controlled Burn T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmic Debris T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Dragon T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drive By Shooting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Exploited T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly-Girls T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gold Dust T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heathenistic Pursuit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Home-Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lighten Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Max Deviator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mongoloid S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Pinkeyes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Wave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pink Panther S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rock-Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scattered Youth T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 4 pitches
FA: Dan McDevitt & Sue McDevitt - 1993
Page Views: 6,754 total · 49/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a wonderful, sustained climb with excellent movement. It is also entirely bolted (even the TCU crack at the top!) -- a very enjoyable change of pace from things like the Steck-Salathe.

Begin in the center of the Chapel Wall, well left of Cosmic Debris. Note that the Reid Guide is seriously misleading in terms of the location of this route: The topo on pp. 246 & 247 shows routes 'A' through 'R'. The Great Escape, route 'U', actually is located between routes 'I' and 'J' on this topo.

The start of this route is somewhat hidden by boulders and trees. Begin in a right facing corner at a high-point along the base of the cliff.

P1: Climb easily up cracks to the top of a pillar (a #2 Camalot will protect this, but the climbing is easy). Clip an anchor, and then perform a difficult 5.11a traverse right. Climb up past bolts to a ledge with a small tree (visable from the base). Belay. 5.11a.

P2: The crux. Head up the thin, sustained face above. 5.11c. Traverse right to a belay in a right facing corner/ramp.

P3: Head up the ramp past bolts, then up a crack to a roof. Pull the roof to the right, and continue up to a belay. 5.11b.

P4. Pumpy, but easier than pitch two. Climb up the overhanging crack system past bolts. Traverse left on steeper rock, and then more easily up to a belay. 5.11c.

Rap the route with a single 60m rope.

Protection

A dozen draws.

Photos

Ellis L
Chico, CA
 
Ellis L   Chico, CA
 
My partner and I did not appreciate seeing every foot chip and handhold blatantly ticked with chalk. This is NOT the gym. A great outing nonetheless! Jun 11, 2017
Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
 
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
 
Great climbing, difficult for the grade? Maybe. I had a hard time reading the sequences squinting into the sun. The second pitch (the first bit of 5.11 climbing) was hugely fun. Steep jugs and bolts in Yosemite Valley?!?! Yeah dude! May 3, 2015
Moritz B.  
 
Great route, it´s a great escape from mosquitoes and a retreat from bigwalling :)
My thoughts:
- Link Pitch one (the 5.8 crack) and the second pitch (11a traverse).
- The second pitch felt super duper hard for 11c - just saying.
- The third pitch is relatively short, fun and easy/juggy.
- Pitch four is super awesome. Cool moves on great locks. Fully bolted. Oh yes! May 28, 2014
Ranger Matt
Yosemite NP
Ranger Matt   Yosemite NP
Use some longer draws on the last few bolts on pitch 3 (or 2 depend on how you're counting).
A little too much drag on the last moves without them.

I think pitch 1 and 2 combined is one of the best face pitches right off the ground in the valley. May 15, 2013
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
As correctly mentioned in description - this route located just left from "Controlled Burn" and Reid book placed it wrong far right.
Administrator, please change the place of this route in the chart " from left to right"
It is stelar and hard route Sep 29, 2012
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
As correctly mentioned in description - this route located just left from "Controlled Burn" and Reid book placed it wrong far right.
Administrator, please change the place of this route in the chart " from left to right" Sep 29, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Derek,
This route and a bunch of stuff at the Public Sanitation wall have some bolted cracks.
Best. May 5, 2011
Not trying to begin a huge debate (I've never even been on the route!), but this description seems to indicate that there is a bolted "TCU crack" on the final pitch. Is there in fact an otherwise protectable bolted crack on this route? Again, not looking to start a flame-fest, just posing a simple question. Thanks! May 5, 2011
This route is really great--awesome featured face climbing, sustained at the grade, totally safe. I had a difficult time finding the base as well, which is unfortunate because the Chapel Wall is a heinous mosquito horror show until you get a pitch off the ground. I think the source of the confusion is that the route topo is right on the binding in the Reid guide. Mar 17, 2010
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Challenging for the grade! Sep 13, 2008

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