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Routes in The Chapel Wall

Berlin Wall S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Chockblock Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Controlled Burn T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmic Debris T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Dragon T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drive By Shooting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Exploited T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly-Girls T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gold Dust T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heathenistic Pursuit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Home-Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lighten Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Max Deviator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mongoloid S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Pinkeyes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Wave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pink Panther S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rock-Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scattered Youth T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,318 total, 16/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Feb 1, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is the sport climb immediately left of Heathenistic Pursuit. Start behind a large boulder and make some techy moves up under a roof. Turn the roof at its right end and continue up some easier face climbing before firing the crux just below the anchors. The crux is somewhat beta intensive, but once you've got the sequence this is a sort of easy 11d (if there is such a thing!).

This can be easily toproped after climbing the first pitch of Heathenistic Pursuit.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Michael Dom  
 
The top crux feels really greasy if you use the side pull. If you try the problem without utilizing the side pull it may be easier. Try to be creative. Dec 12, 2016
Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
 
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
 
I felt the crux was in the balance moves down lower heading to bolt #2. The upper section felt straight forward and I didn't think it was very hard to figure out or very strenuous. Although this comes from a guy who climbed this route because I was flailing around on the 5.10 corner to the right and bailed. A consensus has been reached that I'm a better bolt clipper than a widget jammer.

Fun movement, a couple good bolts and a couple bad ones. Jan 26, 2015
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The last bolt (which protects the final crux) was replaced earlier this year. The rest of them are still sort of old and sketchy. Aug 16, 2012
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
A few of the bolts are bad. Three are spinners, and the last is rusted badly and a bit undermined behind. Apr 7, 2012
FA: still undetermined Jan 6, 2012
Ranger Matt
Yosemite NP
Ranger Matt   Yosemite NP
There is a variation to the left (slightly easier), which stems up off the large rock in front of the wall. This avoids the brutal, thin crux down low by going straight up to the roof and travering to the right. There is a different bolt for this vartiation but is of suspect quality.
I found this to be more fun than the tweaky direct line. Aug 18, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I wouldn't call this easy 11d. Maybe if you are tall you can reach through both cruxes more easily but it will still stay on you. Also, the bolts aren't amazing but since most people toprope it anyways, you could also place a medium nut in a shallow slot up by the last bolt (extend with a shoulder) and be pretty confident that the top pro will hold if you blow that crux. Jun 16, 2011