Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Greg Schaffer and Rob Foster - September 1968|
|Page Views:||843 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Osprey Overhang on Feb 11, 2012|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Pitch 1) Start walking up the chimney. Class two quickly turns to three and four before reaching an impasse below a large chockblock. An old rusty bolt ladder will bypass this chockblock, however, the free variation is only 5.8 and well protected. Clip one of the first two bolts on the ladder for security and use chimney technique to ascend directly below the chockblock. Place a bomber small to medium cam with a long runner and pull the strenuous old school 5.8 moves to gain the slopped and sandy top of the chockblock. Set up a belay in the tree/bushes further above the chockblock.
Pitch 2) Bump the belay up to an alcove at the highest point of the slopped and sandy ledge.
Climb a hollow stack of blocks (5.5) until a bush with years of broken sticks and sediment blocks your progress. Find a passage through the bush and debris. Set up a belay on top of the debris at the base of a dark and intimidating chimney.
Pitch 3) Easily begin up the chimney setting questionable pro until a good rest is reached below an impasse. Slowly stem toward the outside of the chimney to eventually regain upward progress (5.7). Climb up the narrowing and increasingly rotten chimney. Stay on route here and do not escape toward Tithe.
When you reach the top of the climb, find a large pine tree with slings and biners for the start of the rappels. Make one double rope rappel to the sandy/sloped top of pitch one. Find a ledge that traverses over the top of pitch one, looking for a rappel anchor that consists of a rusty quarter inch bolt and an old stopper. Make a single rope rappel from the bolt/stopper anchor back to the start of the climb.