Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Chapel Wall

Berlin Wall S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Chockblock Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Controlled Burn T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmic Debris T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Dragon T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drive By Shooting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Exploited T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly-Girls T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gold Dust T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heathenistic Pursuit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Home-Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lighten Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Max Deviator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mongoloid S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Pinkeyes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Wave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pink Panther S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rock-Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scattered Youth T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Pete Takeda and Cade Lloyd (1989)
Page Views: 142 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 29, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is the first route you'll come to when you walk up the trail to the "Chapel Wall Left" area. Just before you reach the base of Heathenistic Pursuit, turn left and follow the trail up the sandy hillside. Exploited is the thin crack system near the outside arete of a big right-facing corner. Rock-Shock is the bolted line just to the left. Start on the right side of the arete and do a V2 boulder problem to gain the crack around left. Follow the discontinuous crack and arete and then finish on some sinker finger jams.

This used to be super dirty, but I took a wire brush to it, replaced the anchor bolts, and trundled a 3ft block from the ledge at the top, so the climb is good-to-go now. I think this is actually one of the better climbs at Chapel Wall. It's short, but the climbing is sustained. It has excellent rock, cool moves, great position near such a steep arete, and the burly start will keep the riff raff away.

Protection

Pro to 1.5", mainly finger size and smaller.

Photos

- No Photos -
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
If you're wondering why the anchor is a few moves above the ledge, it's because you used to clip it while standing on the detached block. After giving said block the shove-off, I thought about just chopping the old anchor and drilling a new one a few feet lower, but ultimately I decided to reuse the original holes and keep the anchor where it was. May 29, 2016