Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Pete Takeda and Cade Lloyd (1989)
Page Views: 943 total · 14/month
Shared By: Bryan G on May 29, 2016
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

This is the first route you'll come to when you walk up the trail to the "Chapel Wall Left" area. Just before you reach the base of Heathenistic Pursuit, turn left and follow the trail up the sandy hillside. Exploited is the thin crack system near the outside arete of a big right-facing corner. Rock-Shock is the bolted line just to the left. Start on the right side of the arete and do a V2 boulder problem to gain the crack around left. Follow the discontinuous crack and arete and then finish on some sinker finger jams.

This used to be super dirty, but I took a wire brush to it, replaced the anchor bolts, and trundled a 3ft block from the ledge at the top, so the climb is good-to-go now. I think this is actually one of the better climbs at Chapel Wall. It's short, but the climbing is sustained. It has excellent rock, cool moves, great position near such a steep arete, and the burly start will keep the riff raff away.

Protection

Pro to 1.5", mainly finger size and smaller.

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