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Routes in The Chapel Wall

Berlin Wall S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Chockblock Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Controlled Burn T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmic Debris T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Dragon T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drive By Shooting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Exploited T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly-Girls T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gold Dust T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heathenistic Pursuit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Home-Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lighten Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Max Deviator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mongoloid S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Pinkeyes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Wave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pink Panther S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rock-Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scattered Youth T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Beyer and Bob Sullivan, 1978
Page Views: 2,477 total, 19/month
Shared By: Sirius on Apr 13, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Excellent and varied pitch that begins in a large left-facing corner that is easily visible from the trail. The line moves away from the corner after a few moves, following a lieback and thin hands crack around a small roof and up a short, steep ramp. Steep hands in double cracks lead to the massive roof that caps the lower half of the dihedral - traverse left under this roof, passing a second crux, to access the anchors. Rap rings, single rope rap to the ground.

A second pitch may continue up the obvious undercling, though the condition of the anchor on top is unknown to me.

Location

From the Chapel, follow the horse trail down-valley. After ~150 ft, look for a trail that breaks up and left to the obvious cliff face. The dark dihedral of Heathenistic Pursuit is hard to miss.

Protection


Doubles to 2". Some may want to triple up in the 1.25" (.75 BD) size, though not necessary.

Photos

Andrew U
Yosemite, CA
  5.10b
Andrew U   Yosemite, CA
  5.10b
rating is a bit of a sandbag, but its a classic and I think it should stay that way ;) Nov 16, 2016
Arch Richardson
  5.10b/c
Arch Richardson  
  5.10b/c
Thuggish lieback. Packs a lot in 60 ft. Great gear throughout. Jul 30, 2016
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
curious about second pitch..
what is the anchors for it?
anyone done it recently? May 13, 2013
Billy Smallen
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Billy Smallen   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Great route! Can be climbed in the rain, bring repellent in the summer. Oct 24, 2011