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Routes in The Chapel Wall

Berlin Wall S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chockblock Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Controlled Burn T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmic Debris T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Dragon T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drive By Shooting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Exploited T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly-Girls T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gold Dust T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heathenistic Pursuit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Home-Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lighten Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Max Deviator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mongoloid S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Pinkeyes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Wave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pink Panther S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rock-Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scattered Youth T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Jeff Schoen & Greg Bryce - 1991
Page Views: 983 total · 8/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 2, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


Lighten Up is an OK route that would be a lot better if it weren't such a pile of lichen. I don't know if this is because of lack of traffic or just the nature of the rock here, but it is a serious detractor from the climbing.

The climb tackles the attractive arete just left of The Great Escape.

P1: Begin on a large ledge and climb up past 2 bolts. From here, either head up the mungy corner at 5.10 armed with a few stoppers, or bust left to the bolted arete, also mungy. One really hard move. 5.12b, 80'.

P2: Face climb up off the belay with really interesting moves -- probably the best pitch. 5.11d, 80'.

P3: Continue up the arete, past a great, difficult sequence and immediately into a slabby boulder problem crux. Continue to the highest of two belay ledges (and three sets of anchors). 5.12b, 80'.

P4: Move out onto the right hand face and climb up and into a small corner. Either stop here at chains, or link into the next pitch -- up and left along a diagonal weakness. 5.11d, 80'-160'.

Rap with one 60m rope.

Rest in peace, Jeff.


Draws, optional wires.


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