Excelente Mi Teniente
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 2000 ft (606 m), 14 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Martin Waldhör, Achim Mink, Michael Sanchez Jan 2008 |
Page Views: | 210 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Eric Och on Jan 5, 2024 |
Admins: | Eric Och, Alex R, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Excelente is comprised of corner, crack and occasionally chimney climbing up a surprisingly moderate line of weakness that is fun and engaging from the first move right to the very end. As soon as you arrive in Anfiteatro this line is obvious and with the intimidating roofs it's a miracle that it goes at such a reasonable grade. A few bolts at crux sections make it quite safe and the directness of the line makes routefinding largely trivial**, just keep going up!
Truly Excelente
** Be warned that the last two to three pitches can be a little non-obvious, so double check your topos and keep an eye out for your anchors lest you meander into the dirty, vegetated terrain that covers the top of Pared Espejo
Location
See the Topos, but also:
This is the huge often dark (but surprisingly dry) line dividing the two sets of rooves on Espejo wall. To either side of it are these large blank rooves that slant up and to the right but it splits them, traversing left for half a pitch shortly after the largest of the rooves and then continuing on it's straight shot up the major weakness in the wall.
It can be found by approaching for the right side of Espejo, up the river, and turning left at the lagoon until the moderate dike is encountered. The first pitch goes up this highly featured dike finishing just above a surprisingly moderate roof.
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