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Excelente Mi Teniente

5.11a, Trad, 2000 ft (606 m), 14 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
FA: Martin Waldhör, Achim Mink, Michael Sanchez Jan 2008
International > S America > Chile > 14. Los Lagos (… > Valle Cochamó > Anfiteatro > El Espejo

Description

Excelente is comprised of corner, crack and occasionally chimney climbing up a surprisingly moderate line of weakness that is fun and engaging from the first move right to the very end. As soon as you arrive in Anfiteatro this line is obvious and with the intimidating roofs it's a miracle that it goes at such a reasonable grade. A few bolts at crux sections make it quite safe  and the directness of the line makes routefinding largely trivial**, just keep going up!

Truly Excelente

** Be warned that the last two to three pitches can be a little non-obvious, so double check your topos and keep an eye out for your anchors lest you meander into the dirty, vegetated terrain that covers the top of Pared Espejo

Location

See the Topos, but also:

This is the huge often dark (but surprisingly dry) line dividing the two sets of rooves on Espejo wall. To either side of it are these large blank rooves that slant up and to the right but it splits them, traversing left for half a pitch shortly after the largest of the rooves and then continuing on it's straight shot up the major weakness in the wall.

It can be found by approaching for the right side of Espejo, up the river, and turning left at the lagoon until the moderate dike is encountered. The first pitch goes up this highly featured dike finishing just above a surprisingly moderate roof.

Protection

Singles in small sizes, doubles .3 to #4, and a few spots where a #5 would be nice but we didn't need it

Nuts, alpines and a double-length sling or two for the traverse pitch.

Quickdraw for the two bolted boulder problems

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eric in the OW/Fists Corner on P8. Sostenido!
[Hide Photo] Eric in the OW/Fists Corner on P8. Sostenido!
Eric halfway through P7s traverse ledge/ramp. A lot of exposure
[Hide Photo] Eric halfway through P7s traverse ledge/ramp. A lot of exposure
Route Topo
[Hide Photo] Route Topo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric Och
Coming soon to a crag near you
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Would recommend skipping the slab traverse at p4 and just going straight up the offwidthy corner. Spits you out in the same place. Then up top the final corner system after the 10c is really dirty and farther left than the topo makes it looks but pretty mellow in the end. Just look out for the anchors hidden way right of the route.

Overall amazing route! Mar 22, 2024
Jack Taylor
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] P9 (after leftward traverse) was a standout. As of March 2024 all fixed anchors have at least one good SS bolt. The "fixed knots" are good for a laugh. Apr 1, 2024