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Routes in South Beach
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Aquarian, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Booster Station S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bore Tide S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Der Rhine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fluid Dynamics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fluid Dynamics Lower S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hydrostatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Iguazu Falls S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Liquid Tension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pecoslovakia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Resistance, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rio Salado S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Sediment Removal S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shortest Straw (Has Been Pulled For You), The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yangtze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 105 ft (32 m) |
| GPS: | 35.84294, -106.14907 |
| FA: | Fred Berman, Stephanie Alessandrone |
| Page Views: | 287 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Grindrite on Oct 15, 2023 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: This crag is on private land. Please respect the landowners by making sure to stay on the main approach trails and the climbers path at the base of the cliff.
Details
Land owners have acknowledged the recreation use of this crag and the Otowi Peak trail. They have not chosen to restrict access at this time. Be sure to park and access this crag via public land access points (see "getting there")
Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo
Details
The BLM Taos Field Office implemented a Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for routes within its management area. The Diablo walls included in this plan are The Shack, Winter Wall, Sun Devil Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx. The final document can be found online: shorturl.at/FYn4f
Description
Scamble up through a weakness in the initial loose section to the base of the climb. A strenuous start leads to steeper but easier terrain capped by a spectacular headwall.
A few notes:
Using longer draws in the middle section of the climb will reduce rope drag.
The route is 105' from the base of the climbing.You'll need an 80m rope to get the climber and the belayer to the base below the initail loose section.
At two thirds hieght two large blocks are wedged in the corner. I pulled and pried on them and could not get them to move. Use good judgement when climbing this section as things can change over time.
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