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Routes in Koala Rock
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A Model for Modern Times S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Buffalo Power S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Changing Lanes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chipmunk Power TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cool Air S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cool Man Luke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Crazies T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Desert Solitaire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Exercise in Futility T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Exit of Humanity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heat Stroke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hero of the Day S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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I'm Your Life T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Keep the Faith T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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King of Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Knob, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Koalie-San S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Purple Haze S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Round Here S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Round River T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Round River Direct S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Round There S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ryan's Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ryan's Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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South Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Suck my Kiss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thin Air T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Through Being Cool S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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To Live is to Die S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Too Rolling Stoned S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Too Rolling Stoned Extension S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Virgin Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.36947, -121.12462 |
| FA: | Jeff Thomas, Keith Edwards, Dean Fry; November 25, 1972 |
| Page Views: | 284 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Beeduhl on Sep 24, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
An old school ground-up route with fun movement on big holds and mostly good rock; some mandatory soloing. There are a couple spots with choss but you get good pro nearby and falls would be clean. The soloing sections are short and more like boulder problems with decent rock. Overall, a worthwhile route to do once if you are solid at the grade and style.
P1 Climb a water groove (5.6, no pro) for ten feet and scramble up 3rd class ledges. Body belay, use questionable cams in pockets, or let the second solo too.
P2 Climb unprotected overhanging jugs (V1, rock is actually pretty good) to a bolt 15 feet up. I had my belayer cloved in to two cams in weird choss pockets and give me a bouldering style spot off the big ledge. Follow a crack up some chossy sections and thought provoking movement with good pro in sections of solid rock between moves. One more bolt and follow better/easier rock to a ledge with two bolts.
P3 Climb a 5.8 corner/chimney straight up. Good rock, good pro. Like Birds in a Rut's corner but better quality in every way. End at a ledge with two bolts.
Descend left past Round River's anchors and around to the back side. Rap or down climb 4th class ledges.
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