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Routes in (1) Koala Rock

Buffalo Power S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cool Air S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cool Man Luke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Crazies T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Exercise in Futility T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Exit of Humanity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heat Stroke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hero of the Day S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I'm your life T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep The Faith T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
King of Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Knob, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Round Here S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Round River S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Round River Direct S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Round There S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ryan's Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ryan's Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Suck my Kiss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thin Air S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Through Being Cool S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
To Live is to Die S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,768 total, 56/month
Shared By: Mattyg on May 29, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

Three pitches of moderate sport climbing in a beautiful setting above the River. First pitch goes from large tree at the base up to anchors. Second pitch can go left of slab above anchors, or slab can go direct (5.7?). Third pitch goes left and around catwalk then up to the top.

Location

Route is halfway (almost) up Burma Rd., east of Smith and above the canal.

Protection

All bolts, with fixed anchors at belays. Finish w/ scramble to backside of rock for spicey single free-rap to uphill side of formation. 5.7 Variation on second pitch is sparsely bolted.
Ryan Bowen
Bend, Or
 
Ryan Bowen   Bend, Or
 
This was my first lead. I linked P1 and P2, and just ran it out. Scary for sure, but very easy to do. Asterisk Pass seems sketchier than P2 of this climb. Huge Belay ledge is huge. You could pitch a tent up there. Mar 27, 2017
jp.brown
Silverdale, WA
 
jp.brown   Silverdale, WA
 
We linked pitch 1-2, placed 1 nut and 2 small cams. Apr 7, 2016
S.Lee
 
S.Lee  
 
Second pitch protects well enough with a few small stoppers. Would definitely recommend linking the first and second pitch together. Fun route May 10, 2015
DeepSeaPrawn Hemphill
Denver, CO
 
DeepSeaPrawn Hemphill   Denver, CO
 
Very fun easy route! Views are spectacular! Do it at sunset. I did the "direct" 5.8 third pitch variation, which was really fun and well-protected. Doing it again, I would probably link the first and second pitches. For the second pitch, offset nuts and small offset cams are useful. The first bolt on the first pitch is quite high, but it is very easy and secure climbing up to it, so don't be intimidated (and you can fit a couple pieces of gear in if you really wanted). Sep 15, 2014
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Fun route with great views.

Second pitch needs trad gear or you can just run it out like crazy on the giant potholes and low angle terrain to the anchor.

Third pitch variation is worth doing. Round River Direct is a nice 5.8 and is well bolted to the top with the crux at the second bolt. Jun 13, 2013
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
liveit P   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
Had a blast on this route. Very easy climbing with plenty of bolts on the first pitch. 2nd pitch has potential nut and small cam placements, there was a nut stuck and I clipped it, didn't feel the need for any more pro. We did the Direct finish which I think is 5.8. Bolted very well (can't see all the bolts from the belay.) Rappelled off the backside which is a free rap, a great way to end the whole climb. Jun 16, 2010
DWech
Fort Collins
  5.5
DWech   Fort Collins
  5.5
This route is greatly improved with the addition of the direct finish. P1 and P2 (do this in 3 so as to hear your belayer) are no harder than 5.5 or so, but it's good to take some medium-to-large nuts for one placement on the long crack of P2. P3 (the direct finish) is runout a bit, but it's easy after the last bolt. Jun 1, 2010
John Butters
Portland, Oregon
 
John Butters   Portland, Oregon
 
1st pitch has good bolts. 2nd pitch is protected for the first 20 feet, then nothing. I just carried a set up stoppers and was able to protect the 2nd pitch reasonably. 3rd pitch has no bolts if you stay true to "Round River" and don't end up moving over to "Round River Direct" (a 5.9 alternate ending that is well bolted.) I was able to protect the first 30 feet with stoppers but the last 40 feet was unprotectable to the top. A bit sketch but a great climb! Oh, and it is in the shade in the morning so bring layers!!! May 12, 2008
corvegas
the depths of oregon
corvegas   the depths of oregon
Link P1 and P2 with 60m to the nice belay ledge. Carry mabey 1 or 2 thin peices for the runout on P2, and mabey 1 or 2 larger peices for the last pitch. Mar 12, 2007
Danny Darby
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Danny Darby   Seattle, WA
  5.9
1st pitch is all bolts. 2nd pitch starts with a couple of bolts and continues up the run out slab. Can use small stoppers here. You can link these two pitches if needed.
I recommend the Round River Direct 3rd pitch. 5.9 with plenty of bolts. From the top of the 2nd pitch you basically follow a line of shiny new bolts straight to the top of Koala Rock. Great pitch. Feb 16, 2007
mark d
 
mark d  
 
this is not a sport route. only the first pitch is bolted. May 31, 2006