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Routes in (1) Koala Rock

Buffalo Power S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cool Air S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cool Man Luke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Crazies T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Exercise in Futility T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Exit of Humanity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heat Stroke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hero of the Day S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I'm your life T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep The Faith T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
King of Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Knob, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Round Here S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Round River S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Round River Direct S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Round There S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ryan's Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ryan's Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Suck my Kiss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thin Air S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Through Being Cool S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
To Live is to Die S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Ryan Lawson, Will Darin, Synne Chadwick 1997
Page Views: 1,434 total, 10/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Start up the face/seam just left of the arete clipping older looking glue-ins for the first 4 clips. Veer a bit right through some odd polished rock and follow a dike for a bit before gaining the arete.
Once you reach the arete you will be clipping new bolts.
Follow the arete to a Fixe biner anchor.

Location

The East face of Koala has a few newer bolted lines. This route is the arete about 200 yards uphill from the Thin Air area just before the rock becomes very overhanging.

Protection

draws

Photos

Trevor Vichas
Strawberry, CA
  5.10c
Trevor Vichas   Strawberry, CA
  5.10c
I lead this for the first time last fall and got the onsight. I think it's a solid 10c with a few cruxs and agree with Phildm, "put your big boy pants on and give it a go". The route is super fun and memorable! Jul 14, 2017
Phildlm
 
Phildlm  
 
What a fun route! I think you could argue this is 10c, possibly 10d. Problem is that its not as hard as other 10d's in the park like Moons of Pluto, Headless Horseman or Reason to Be. I think those are all 11a's so this is what a 10d is supposed to be like. The fall potential is clean the whole way so if in doubt, put your big boy pants on and give it a go. The position is spectacular and the moves are memorable for sure. Do it! Mar 26, 2017
Ranae  
I'm glad others think this is sandbagged. Why is the consensus still 10c then? Come on, people. It deserves a D. A big ol' D. Sep 24, 2016
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
  5.10d
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
  5.10d
This is a great pitch and definitely sandbagged at 5.10c. The crack down low is positive and fun but the best climbing is right below the anchor on steep, technical ground with some pretty good fall potential. Check it out. May 24, 2015
Rod J.
Bend, OR
  5.10d
Rod J.   Bend, OR
  5.10d
Starts out hard (after the 1st bolt) & gets harder all the way until the anchors. This is definitely a full grade above Buffalo Power (which is a solid 10c). Mar 9, 2015
The Farley
Idaho Springs
The Farley   Idaho Springs
Hard pitchÂ… felt like I was missing something. Nov 12, 2013
bryans
5.10d
bryans  
5.10d
seemed pretty stout for the grade. great finish. Jun 19, 2006
mark d
 
mark d  
 
this route, did feel difficult for the grade. it was originally led, mostly on gear. Jun 5, 2006