Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Ryan Lawson, Will Darin, Synne Chadwick 1997
Page Views: 1,748 total · 11/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

32 Opinions

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Start up the face/seam just left of the arete clipping older looking glue-ins for the first 4 clips. Veer a bit right through some odd polished rock and follow a dike for a bit before gaining the arete.
Once you reach the arete you will be clipping new bolts.
Follow the arete to a Fixe biner anchor.


The East face of Koala has a few newer bolted lines. This route is the arete about 200 yards uphill from the Thin Air area just before the rock becomes very overhanging.




mark d
mark d  
this route, did feel difficult for the grade. it was originally led, mostly on gear. Jun 5, 2006
seemed pretty stout for the grade. great finish. Jun 19, 2006
The Farley
Sierra Eastside, CA
The Farley   Sierra Eastside, CA
Hard pitchÂ… felt like I was missing something. Nov 12, 2013
Rod J.
Bend, OR
Rod J.   Bend, OR
Starts out hard (after the 1st bolt) & gets harder all the way until the anchors. This is definitely a full grade above Buffalo Power (which is a solid 10c). Mar 9, 2015
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
This is a great pitch and definitely sandbagged at 5.10c. The crack down low is positive and fun but the best climbing is right below the anchor on steep, technical ground with some pretty good fall potential. Check it out. May 24, 2015
I'm glad others think this is sandbagged. Why is the consensus still 10c then? Come on, people. It deserves a D. A big ol' D. Sep 24, 2016
What a fun route! I think you could argue this is 10c, possibly 10d. Problem is that its not as hard as other 10d's in the park like Moons of Pluto, Headless Horseman or Reason to Be. I think those are all 11a's so this is what a 10d is supposed to be like. The fall potential is clean the whole way so if in doubt, put your big boy pants on and give it a go. The position is spectacular and the moves are memorable for sure. Do it! Mar 26, 2017
Trevor Vichas
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Trevor Vichas   South Lake Tahoe, CA
I lead this for the first time last fall and got the onsight. I think it's a solid 10c with a few cruxs and agree with Phildm, "put your big boy pants on and give it a go". The route is super fun and memorable! Jul 14, 2017
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
To contrast with Phildlm's comment about this being easier than other 10d's in the park, I found this route harder than /Buffalo power/ and /Butter Knife Arete/, both 10c. Unrelated, clipping the anchor can be a little scary if you're short, but an awesome route nevertheless. Jan 19, 2019