Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,597 total · 54/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 3, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

115 Opinions

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Great 5.10 multi pitch!
1st pitch requires gear and the rest is bolted. Where the trail meets the crag you will be at the base of the climb.

Pitch 1:
Follow thin crack up to a bulge. Pull the bulge and follow the crack/face above to a bolted anchor. (5.9 120 ft.)

Pitch 2: Crack through some bulges on excellent rock up and right to another bolted anchor. (5.10a 60 ft.)

Pitch 3: Finesse a step bulge just above the anchor then wander up and right to another bulge. Above the last bulge climb huge holds to a third set of anchors. (5.10a 100 ft.)

Rap twice with a single 60m rope to the top of pitch 1. From the anchor at the top of pitch one rap into the gully on the East side of the formation.


TCUs cams to 3" and draws for upper two pitches.
chris tregge
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
You can do the bolted 5.9 to the right as the first pitch of this climb if you don't have any gear. Really a lot of fun. At the end (anchors) of the 5.9, you have to keep climbing to the anchors of the 5.10 first pitch of this climb which are up and around some blocks. Just keep going until you see them, it's not hard. Jun 2, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
For the last pitch, clip the bolt off the belay and then head right and then up..... I tried for a while to go straight up until I realized the error of my ways. May 9, 2010
Josh Lagalo
Bend, OR
Josh Lagalo   Bend, OR
I would really discourage folks from rapping this route. If others are on route(pretty popular route IMO) then they will be tossing ropes and rapping right on top of other parties. They should top out and then use the single rappel off the backside, same as Round River descent.

Also more than once i've seen parties get the rope stuck pulling off the 3rd bolted belay. It's not really set up for a rappel.

JL Sep 14, 2010
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
On that note, if you decide to walk off, I think the scree surfing around the backside (south side) of the rock is a bit easier than the north. That was how it felt to me, anyway, although it probably didn't help that when I went down the north side I was barefoot. Sep 15, 2010
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
To add to the decent options... I agree that rapping the route could be a little tough on the rope and recommend other alternatives. A bit of 3rd and 4th class scrambling gets you to the backside rappel or walk off. The walk off is an EASY 8 foot 3rd class down climb to a ledge and then a walk down 3rd class dihedral formation to put you right next to "The Knob 10a"

After that the scree slope sucks no matter what.

Finally, the 5.8 trad pitch is infinitely better in my opinion than the one move wonder bolted route to the right. Bring a single rack for comfortable leaders (who can use nuts) and you'll have a blast. Nov 9, 2013
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
We climbed the route with another party, joined ropes and made one double rope rappel to the south gully. Feb 24, 2014
Vince Schreck
Portland, OR
Vince Schreck   Portland, OR
Did this with Jim Ablao of Chockstone Guides leading. One of my favorite Smith Rock multi pitch climbs. The first pitch looks intimidating, but you can stem the rock spur (to the right) off the ground, and there are plenty of features for your feet. It's not like an all-fingers crack climb. The upper pitches start with 5.10+ moves right off the belay, but then ease up as you go. Excellent climb! Oct 19, 2015
Robin S
Robin S   OR
Did this on 4/31/17 with three people. We did Suck My Kiss around the corner, and then a 20ft 5.4 unprotected pitch to link it with the base of the second pitch. This gave us 3 amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing. Rapped off to climbers right using two 70m ropes, down through the large roof and down Ryan's Arete. Second pitch opening moves felt a little stout for 10a, while the third pitch moves felt soft for 10b, although the exposure makes it feel scarier. Great climb, totally worth doing. Apr 5, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
The two sport pitches should be linked. The bolt placement for the second crux means you either have to avoid the obvious hold out right or risk a pendulum fall. The route can be rapped in two with a 60m if going to the anchor for Through Being Cool which are quick-clips. This is actually far preferable to walking off provided there is nobody coming up behind you (don't be that guy). Apr 23, 2017
Jacob Sustrich
Jacob Sustrich  
Hardest moves on each pitch were right off the deck it seemed to me. There's also a chance for the second to swing wide right on the initial traverse out at the start of the third pitch. Also... surfing down that slope was awesome! Just get yourself going and stick with it, you can empty your shoes out at the bottom. May 31, 2017
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
Climbing Suck My Kiss (5.9) to the right then doing a little runout to the P1 anchor made this into an incredible completely bolted climb! Jul 28, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
This is THE MP to do at Smith on crowded weekends in the fall. It's also bathed in sun from morning to evening so cold days don't suck as much.

I found the starts of all pitches to be the crux; the last moves of each pitch are quite wonderful cruisers.

The only pitch were you might have trouble hearing your partner is the top of P1, especially if it's windy.

And if you wanna know how the route got its name, well, wait for P3. It'll take your breath away. Oct 16, 2017
Dan Stringer
Eugene, OR
Dan Stringer   Eugene, OR
You can link pitches 2 and 3 with a 60m rope and a handful of double length slings. Doing this creates a riskier move for the follower off the deck at the start of p2. Consider rope stretch and your followers climbing ability if linking pitches 2 and 3. Apr 3, 2018
Holden Marsh
Eugene, OR
Holden Marsh   Eugene, OR
Keep in mind that the first pitch of this climb is trad despite the route being listed as sport. One can avoid the traditional first pitch by doing the sport route "Suck My Kiss" to the right and running an extra 20ft or so (as also stated by Robin S) to the proper anchor on Thin Air. Apr 23, 2018
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
Adding to @Nate Ball's comment - I'm not sure what the set-up is like up top for the descent. There's a rap area above the 2 anchors for Cool Air/Through Being Cool. A team threw down a rope above that station and I got hit while climbing Cool Air, even through they rappelled much further to the right. Please watch where you throw. Oct 29, 2018