Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Bill Soule, 1994
Page Views: 397 total · 4/month
Shared By: Corey McCarthy on Apr 11, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

The crux comes after the 5th bolt, trying to get to a right hand crimp that seems so far away. A high left foot is crucial here. From there, wonderful positive crimps lead to a shared anchor with Cool Air. This route has some of the best stone in the park!

Location

Starts just to the right of Cool Air and to the left of Ryans Arete. Step onto the wall from the top of the chimney/ledge to avoid the 10 foot scramble on the loose chimney.

Protection

9 bolts

Photos

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Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Easy getting to the first bolt. This crux is even worse then the 11c crux. It's between the 4th and 5th bolts where the rock changes style, contrary to the description above, although getting to the 6th bolt was difficult too. Requires pulling up on crimpers to get to a little corner foothold at hip height while right foot slips on a slopey hold. Pull up on crimper. There's a big hand crimp to aim for. I felt pretty scrappy climbing this, and it didn’t look like there was any better beta unlike the 11c where when you unlock the beta it’s easier. Where the route eases up, there's more crimpy edgy rock pulling and walking feet up on big edges to the anchor which is the part of the route I liked because of the good flow/consistency. Oct 29, 2018