Falcon's Rib

Falcon's Rib is a fun and varied line that seems to be accidentally climbed when people get lost looking for Rock Jungle but totally worth doing on it's own. I was surprised not to see it on MP after we climbed it. The route's start can be identified by beginning at the second to last bolt line if you're walking along the wall from right to left. This is probably my favorite route at Eagle Peak. It has a little bit of everything to challenge well-rounded climbers.  

Pitch 1 (10a) - Same start as the right-side start of Rock Jungle according to the images on RJ's page. Climb up the slab route with nice holds all the way up. End at the first obvious anchors you see instead of heading left for Rock Jungle. Stay here and continue upward if you want to climb the direct 11c route. There are spots for anchors a few feet to the right that’s a better spot right under the bolt line for the 11b or 10d variation.

Pitch 2 (11c Direct Variation) - Start directly below a shallow roof and navigate through a cryptic sequence to pull through the first two bolts. Continue on sustained climbing through slippery rock and don’t let the top out sequence punt you off. After mantling above the pillar, one more bolt of easy climbing leads you to a set of anchors. Walk a bit more right to find anchors directly below the start of P3. 

Pitch 2 (11b Variation) - Traverse slightly right (if you’re at the first set of anchors) and continue up the first set of bolts for the the 11b variation of Falcon’s Rib. Trust your feet and thin hands to find just enough around slippery rock with the occasional positive hold/rail. Mantle up and the anchors are facing you at the ledge. There's a third set of anchor bolts to the right of this that goes at 10d according to the guide.

Pitch 3 (11a) - Continue upwards the stone pillar. Bear hugging helps if your wingspan is long enough or dance between the two aretes. A fun stemmy section awaits to a moderate roof section on great holds. End on a 6x1 ledge where the anchors await. 

Pitch 4  (11+?) - Climb up the crack system on the right side of the belay to find a nice ledge out left to await the crux of the pitch. Drop down right using a nice triangle flake and follow the bolt line up to finish on a great ledge and really high anchors. This pitch felt way harder than 11a after a revisit and it seems like others agree too.

Pitch 5 (5.8) - Climb up starting left of the anchors and cut right, avoiding the cacti right above the anchors. Three more bolts of chill climbing. The final anchors are on the boulder at the summit. Scramble to the top afterwards. Pretty sure this pitch could be combined with P4.

Falcon's Rib starts at the second to last bolt line of the left wall. From Lunch Rock, continue left following the wall. Find a tree cave to crawl under and cut immediately right to climb up to the cacti covered terrace. Walk past the roof section that indicates the start of Southwest Face. The next bolted line you see is the start of Falcon's Rib.

Quick-draws. All anchors are bolted.