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Routes in Left Wall

Baby Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruise Line S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Route, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Straw, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Offspring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prime Rib S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Jungle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scylla T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Southwest Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tail Tucker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tail Tucker Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Worrall, Shannon
Page Views: 440 total, 9/month
Shared By: SCherry on Feb 9, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Nesting falcons reported, 2012 through 2015 Details
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

The actual climb "Tail Tucker Arete" is just 2 pitches of technical face climbing/endurance crimping above the first pitch of "Tail Tucker" (Trad/Mixed). Combine it with the final pitch of "The Shining Slab" to make for a great long, clean 4-pitch line up the tallest section of the cliff. The 2 crux pitches follow the clean face just left of the prominent arete marking the left side of the Tail Tucker Corner/dihedral.

Pitch 1:(10a) begin down hill about 20 feet from Lunch Rock and climb technical slab on slick grey stone up to a 2-bolt belay just below the start of the prominent corner/dihedral. 80 feet and 8-10 bolts. You can lower/rap from here or you have a few options to keep going including the mixed line "Tail Tucker" which moves into the corner proper, or you can move right to link into "Offspring" or "Cruise Line". Aim your sights to the left to join into the Tail Tucker Arete pitches.

Pitch 2:(11d) The first actual "Tail Tucker Arete" pitch. Begins by climbing left to a couple thin moves that get you established on the face (10c). Then climb about 15 feet to the right of the line of bolts for "The Shining Slab" on the left side of the prominent arete (you'll pass a large chain anchor marking the end of the first pitch of Shining Slab) until you reach a short right facing corner with a finger crack in the back. Climb up the corner onto the face where you'll encounter a short section of sustained crimps (crux) and up to a hanging belay close to the arete proper. Maybe 120 feet and 12-14 bolts total.

Pitch 3: (11d) Leave the belay and immediately launch into another similarly sustained section of crimps (crux). The climb then moves out closer to the arete proper for a few bolts and then up onto the white slab which turns back to orange rock towards the top. This whole pitch is fairly sustained. It ends at a perfect small crescent shaped ledge with an anchor with rap rings. 120 feet and 14 bolts. *You could end here and rap back to the ground but at this point you're only one easier pitch from the Summit.

Pitch 4: (10c/d?) This is the final summit pitch for several lines including Stellar Slab, Shining Slab and Tail Tucker. Incorrectly rated 10a in the ACSD guide this pitch has a couple tricky spots separated by easy terrain. Climb up off the belay into a 25 foot left facing corner. Climb up the corner passing a tricky spot thats harder than it looks. Then up a slab to a small roof. Turn the roof on its left and move up into a steep alcove/corner capped by a bigger roof. Turn this roof on its right side (tricky crux) and climb a final 20 feet of steep face to a nice ledge just below the top of the wall. Unrope here and scramble carefully to the top. 120 feet and 12 bolts.

Location

Begins with the first pitch of "Tail Tucker Arete". To find this pitch scramble downhill about 20 feet off of lunch rock. The start is the first bolt line left of the start of "Cruise Line"

Protection

16 quick draws, some extendable runners helpful. All anchors bolted

Photos

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Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
Neat route; the climbing on P2 and P3 is really enjoyable. The pitch-by-pitch navigation beta listed above is spot on (though keep in mind the route-finding is pretty straightforward overall). Some thought on the grades:

- P2 seems a bit light in the grade, 11b or 11c.
- P3 is really a gimme for 11d, probably closer to 11a
- P4, on the other hand, is a doozy. It felt like 5.11 to me, and the bolting was "spicier" than the previous pitches. The climbing is reasonably fun though.

If this route is near your limit, put your stronger leader on P2 and P4. 3 days ago
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pitch 1 and 2 can be linked with a 70m and 20 quick draws. you will need a few alpine runners for rope drag.

Feels really soft for the grade, maybe 11a/b. Mar 26, 2017