Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
|Type:||Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,106 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||SCherry on Feb 9, 2014|
|Admins:||M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Pitch 1:(10a) begin down hill about 20 feet from Lunch Rock and climb technical slab on slick grey stone up to a 2-bolt belay just below the start of the prominent corner/dihedral. 80 feet and 8-10 bolts. You can lower/rap from here or you have a few options to keep going including the mixed line "Tail Tucker" which moves into the corner proper, or you can move right to link into "Offspring" or "Cruise Line". Aim your sights to the left to join into the Tail Tucker Arete pitches.
Pitch 2:(11d) The first actual "Tail Tucker Arete" pitch. Begins by climbing left to a couple thin moves that get you established on the face (10c). Then climb about 15 feet to the right of the line of bolts for "The Shining Slab" on the left side of the prominent arete (you'll pass a large chain anchor marking the end of the first pitch of Shining Slab) until you reach a short right facing corner with a finger crack in the back. Climb up the corner onto the face where you'll encounter a short section of sustained crimps (crux) and up to a hanging belay close to the arete proper. Maybe 120 feet and 12-14 bolts total.
Pitch 3: (11d) Leave the belay and immediately launch into another similarly sustained section of crimps (crux). The climb then moves out closer to the arete proper for a few bolts and then up onto the white slab which turns back to orange rock towards the top. This whole pitch is fairly sustained. It ends at a perfect small crescent shaped ledge with an anchor with rap rings. 120 feet and 14 bolts. *You could end here and rap back to the ground but at this point you're only one easier pitch from the Summit.
Pitch 4: (10c/d?) This is the final summit pitch for several lines including Stellar Slab, Shining Slab and Tail Tucker. Incorrectly rated 10a in the ACSD guide this pitch has a couple tricky spots separated by easy terrain. Climb up off the belay into a 25 foot left facing corner. Climb up the corner passing a tricky spot thats harder than it looks. Then up a slab to a small roof. Turn the roof on its left and move up into a steep alcove/corner capped by a bigger roof. Turn this roof on its right side (tricky crux) and climb a final 20 feet of steep face to a nice ledge just below the top of the wall. Unrope here and scramble carefully to the top. 120 feet and 12 bolts.