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Routes in Left Wall

Baby Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruise Line S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Route, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Straw, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Offspring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prime Rib S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Jungle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scylla T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shining Slab, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Southwest Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tail Tucker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tail Tucker Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Sean Shannon
Page Views: 469 total · 6/month
Shared By: SCherry on Feb 20, 2012
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This is one of the better 5.12 single pitch routes I've tried at the crag.

Begins in a little "pit" covered by choke cherry bushes about 25 feet left of the start of Rock Jungle.

Climb up a shallow crack feature with good holds on the right side, clipping the first 2 bolts to the left of the crack (the rock here is a little loose, but will clean with time). Then make a stand up move to an undercling that gains the top of the crack and a good hand jam at the base of a little pod.

From the jam, reach up to a good two-handed jug (a little loose) and clip the 3rd bolt. Then step up into the pod and undercling your way left to a good hold and the 4th bolt.

From here is the beginning of the 1st crux, a baffling sequence to gain a jug and rest stance about 15 feet to your left. I won't give it a way but there are a few ways to do it.

From the rest climb up to a finger crack where the wall starts to kick back. Bust a few pumpy crack moves, and gain a stance at the base of the overhanging refrigerator block. Negotiating this steep crux when pumped is the business.

After the refrigerator block the climb eases up for 2 more bolts and ends at a 2-bolt anchor. Currently this anchor has no rap rings, so if you want to lower off and clean the route climb up and right about 10 feet to the rap rings at the top of the first pitch of the route "Ivory Tower".

Location

Furthest left route on the Left Wall. Three routes to the left of the first pitch of Rock Jungle. One route to the left of the route Ivory Tower. Last route before the wall ends and curves around into a bowl like formation called the "Sanctuary Corridor".

Protection

12 quickdraws, plus 2 for the anchor. Anchor needs rap rings, but you can climb up another 10 feet to the midway anchor on Ivory Tower which currently has rap rings.

Photos

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Leavittator  
 
SCherry, I talked to Sean and he said it is called "The Last Straw". He didn't know where the other name came from. BTW, I agree, it is really good. I did the second ascent shortly after Sean did it. May 8, 2012
Leavittator  
 
Is this climb the same as "The Last Straw"? May 2, 2012

More About The Last Straw

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