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Routes in Left Wall

Baby Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruise Line S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Route, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Straw, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Offspring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prime Rib S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Jungle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scylla T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Southwest Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tail Tucker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tail Tucker Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Kevin Worrall & Sean Shannon
Page Views: 776 total, 9/month
Shared By: Adam Kimmerly on Jan 12, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Nesting falcons reported, 2012 through 2015 Details
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

P1 (5.10a): Climb past bolts up the slabby face about 30' left of "Cruise Line" and Lunch Rock. Finish at a rap anchor below the start of the dihedral.
P2 (5.10b/c): Climb right from the belay to bolts (what I did... or maybe unprotected straight up?) clipping two of them before veering left into the start of the dihedral as is angles left, then back right to a crux bulge near the finish. Belay at the higher of two anchors. 2 bolts & pro to 2.5"
P3 (5.11a): Climb the steep dihedral straight off the belay. Continuously cruxy and strenuous liebacking, stemming, and gastons get you through the pitch, easing up well after you expect it to. From there either trend right to an anchor top out via the last pitch of "Baby Face" or trend up and left to the last pitch of "Shining Slab", clipping a bolt or two along the way.

Location

This route climbs the right-hand of two major right-facing dihedrals on the left side of Eagle Peak's Main Wall. The first pitch starts directly below it, just past Lunch Rock where the trail begins to drop steeply along the base of the crag.
Descent: Walk off to the right or rap (bring rap hardware for anchors that may not have fixed hardware!)

Protection

Single rack with nuts and thin cams up to #2 camalot.

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