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Routes in Left Wall

Baby Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruise Line S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Route, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Straw, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Offspring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prime Rib S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Jungle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scylla T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shining Slab, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Southwest Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tail Tucker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tail Tucker Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Kevin Worrall, Sean Shannon, et all
Page Views: 434 total · 9/month
Shared By: SCherry on Nov 17, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details
Access Issue: Nesting falcons reported, 2012 through 2015 Details


Long harder route up the left side of the "Left Wall". 4 really nice and sustained pitches. Only marred by a chossy easy pitch in the middle. Exercise care when climbing this pitch so that you don't send any big rocks flying to the base.

To find the start drop downhill for 100ft from Lunch Rock and follow a cactus covered ramp that leads uphill from the low point of the wall (this low point is where the "Direct Route" begins) for about 50 ft. From here you should be able to spot a pillar or tower that is split off from the wall. The first pitch of "Friendly Fire" climbs up to the base of this tower and then up the right side to an amazing perch on top.

Pitch 1(11a); Climb up the right side of the split pillar or tower to an amazing double bolt belay perched on top! This climb has a lot of nice laybacking, and chimneying. Good trad technique will help.

Pitch 2(12a); Hard off the belay trying to get established in a short left facing corner with jams. Pull up out of the corner to the right and you'll be on a small ledge with an optional belay station. From here climb right on a cool slab with sweet patches of grippy orange rock and a separate tricky crux (5.11), to a hidden belay around the corner in a big dihedral that is shared with "Prime Climb".

Pitch 3(11b/c); Climb up the arete and slab to the left of the big dihedral passing a few tricky sections. This is a pretty sustained pitch that could use a little more cleaning. Towards the end the climb enters another smaller dihedral that is left of the main corner of "Prime Time". After about 25 feet of climbing up this corner a belay is found with a small foot ledge.

Pitch 4(5.10); Warning: this pitch is still pretty dirty and chossy. Exercise caution not to let any big blocks go flying. Climbs up the corner and out right towards the grassy, tree and cactus covered large ledge. Optional belay here in the brush, or continue up from the ledge another 40-50 feet to another large ledge below a buttress of steep rock guarding the summit.

Pitch 5(11c); Nice steep, pumpy climbing leads up a tricky corner at the start to a big layback flake. Good route reading is key. After the flake tackle a tricky roof and rest up before a final 40 feet of stemming and jamming up a corner to the top. Nice pitch deserving of more traffic.


Starts left of the shared start for "Direct Route" and "Prime Time", Up and left on the cactus covered ledge system that traverses up toward the Sanctuary Corridor and the routes on the far left side of the face. Look for a large spire or tower feature that you climb onto for the first pitch.


16 quickdraws. All belays are bolted


- No Photos -
I don't remember the fourth pitch as being dirty and chossy. The rock you're climbing on is solid, and the protection is good. There is a large dirt ledge midway up the fourth that probably has some loose rocks on it where we placed an optional belay anchor. Using it would make two pitches out of a roughly 120' pitch. Just avoid the loose rocks - this is the mountains. You can clip the belay bolts with a runner and continue the lead on good rock, albeit with dirt and vegetation to either side for 30 or 40 feet. This takes you to the last pitch, one of the steeper and wilder pitches EP has to offer. A classic pitch to top out a really varied and challenging route on. Dec 31, 2017

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