Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Worrall, et all
Page Views: 6,193 total · 60/month
Shared By: SCherry on Jan 12, 2011 with improvements by Seth Isenbart
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details
Access Issue: Nesting falcons reported, 2012 through 2015 Details

Description

Directly off of Lunch Rock is this classic, moderate multi-pitch, bolt-up. Begins with one of the easiest single rope lengths in the area (so far anyways). This first pitch is also the approach to several other harder multi-pitch routes on the upper face including, "Offspring" and "Baby Face".

The first pitch can be done single pitch style with 8-10 draws to a lower off, checking in at 5.9. For a lot of folks this is their first introduction to Eagle Peak Climbing. The second pitch traverses hard to the right, off the belay at 5.9, to gain easier ground. Eventually joining the top of the route "Power Pod" before going vertical again for 3 more pitches. The remaining pitches ring in at 10a, 10c and 10b taking the route to the top. All belays are bolted.

Pitch 1: 5.9. A really nice cruise up some stone that has cleaned up amazingly. Head directly up from Lunch Rock following bolts to a ledge with a small bush and anchors. A popular single pitch outing and perhaps thats why this pitch has cleaned up so nicely. 70 feet.

Pitch 2: 5.9 "The Hand Traverse". This pitch traverses hard right above a feature that looks strikingly like a hand from afar. Climb engaging rock about 100 feet trending to the right over the top of several single pitch routes that start from the base. You will pass several sets of anchors ( For the routes "Ring Finger", "Dedo Grande", and "Power Pod") and could stop almost anywhere and belay. I recommend continuing all the way until you have to make a few moves vertically (crux) to reach the anchors for the route "Power Pod". You will be perched at a nice small ledge at the base of a short right facing corner. 130 feet.

Pitch 3: 10a. Stem up the corner off the belay (crux) move right out onto easier ground and follow easy climbing up to a belay on a good sized ledge about 50 feet below the large roof. 75 feet.

Pitch 4: 10c "The Roof Traverse". Stem up the corner off the belay and reach the left side of the large roof. Climb right out onto the face under the roof and solve the tricky slab crux (hint: there are some hidden holds). Then climb into the corner formed at the right side of the roof (long slings useful to prevent rope drag) and make a long rightward traverse across the face heading to a common anchor in a small alcove about 30 feet right of the terminus of the roof. 120 feet.

Pitch 5: 10b or 10c. Two options are presented for the final pitch and both join each other at a left facing corner/ramp system that takes you to the top of the wall (I've only climbed the left 10c variation so I'll give that description). The left 10c variation moves left from the belay out onto the face for a move then gains a small left facing corner. Follow this using the corner for your right hand to a crux finger crack formed where the corner ends. At the end of the finger crack traverse a slab to your right where the route joins the alternate pitch at a large left facing corner, just to the right of a roof. Climb into the corner and up to hidden jugs over the top of a ramp/corner system. Climb out onto this ramp and scramble up to anchors on a block at the top of the wall. 80 feet.

Location

Directly in front of the large flat boulder at the base of the wall, called Lunch Rock. Lower off of anchors at the top of pitch one or continue for 4 more pitches to the top of the crag.

Protection

Bolts

Photos