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Routes in Left Wall

Baby Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruise Line S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Route, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Straw, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Offspring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prime Rib S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Jungle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scylla T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Southwest Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tail Tucker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tail Tucker Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Worrall, et all
Page Views: 4,432 total, 53/month
Shared By: SCherry on Jan 12, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Nesting falcons reported, 2012 through 2015 Details
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Directly off of Lunch Rock is this classic, moderate multi-pitch, bolt-up. Begins with one of the easiest single rope lengths in the area (so far anyways). This first pitch is also the approach to several other harder multi-pitch routes on the upper face including, "Offspring" and "Baby Face".

The first pitch can be done single pitch style with 8-10 draws to a lower off, checking in at 5.9. For a lot of folks this is their first introduction to Eagle Peak Climbing. The second pitch traverses hard to the right, off the belay at 5.9, to gain easier ground. Eventually joining the top of the route "The Pod" before going vertical again for 3 more pitches. The remaining pitches ring in at 10a, 10c and 10b taking the route to the top. All belays are bolted.

Pitch 1: 5.9. A really nice cruise up some stone that has cleaned up amazingly. Head directly up from Lunch Rock following bolts to a ledge with a small bush and anchors. A popular single pitch outing and perhaps thats why this pitch has cleaned up so nicely. 70 feet.

Pitch 2: 5.9 "The Hand Traverse". This pitch traverses hard right above a feature that looks strikingly like a hand from afar. Climb engaging rock about 100 feet trending to the right over the top of several single pitch routes that start from the base. You will pass several sets of anchors ( For the routes "Ring Finger", "Dedo Grande", and "The Pod") and could stop almost anywhere and belay. I recommend continuing all the way until you have to make a few moves vertically (crux) to reach the anchors for the route "The Pod". You will be perched at a nice small ledge at the base of a short right facing corner. 130 feet.

Pitch 3: 10a. Stem up the corner off the belay (crux) move right out onto easier ground and follow easy climbing up to a belay on a good sized ledge about 50 feet below the large roof. 75 feet.

Pitch 4: 10c "The Roof Traverse". Stem up the corner off the belay and reach the left side of the large roof. Climb right out onto the face under the roof and solve the tricky slab crux (hint: there are some hidden holds). Then climb into the corner formed at the right side of the roof (long slings useful to prevent rope drag) and make a long rightward traverse across the face heading to a common anchor in a small alcove about 30 feet right of the terminus of the roof. 120 feet.

Pitch 5: 10b or 10c. Two options are presented for the final pitch and both join each other at a left facing corner/ramp system that takes you to the top of the wall (I've only climbed the left 10c variation so I'll give that description). The left 10c variation moves left from the belay out onto the face for a move then gains a small left facing corner. Follow this using the corner for your right hand to a crux finger crack formed where the corner ends. At the end of the finger crack traverse a slab to your right where the route joins the alternate pitch at a large left facing corner, just to the right of a roof. Climb into the corner and up to hidden jugs over the top of a ramp/corner system. Climb out onto this ramp and scramble up to anchors on a block at the top of the wall. 80 feet.

Location

Directly in front of the large flat boulder at the base of the wall, called Lunch Rock. Lower off of anchors at the top of pitch one or continue for 4 more pitches to the top of the crag.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Anyone else notice the distance between pitch 4's belay station and the first bolt? Probably in excess of 20' (given, relatively easy climbing). Probably could protect it but we didn't bring any pro... Anyways, just wanted to let others know. The rest of the climb is very well bolted, so we weren't sure if we had gone off-route. Oct 31, 2017
cameron hollett
Alta Loma, CA
 
cameron hollett   Alta Loma, CA
 
Did this line a couple weekend back. Good climbing, especially on the last pitches. We did have Falcons dive bomb us on a ledge about half way up the route so watch out! Like the description says on the 2nd pitch traverse make sure to traverse all the way and not stop at another anchor. May 5, 2017
TomHall  
Gave this a try on Feburary 14th before the closure and had issues with pitch 3. After exiting the arete onto the face followed the bolts up and found it harder than 5.10a, and way harder than the stemming section. Ended up at a set of rap rings that were around the corner left of the seam that leads to the roof so I may have accidentally moved onto another route. At that point the heat was getting to us pretty hard and being thoroughly intimidated we rapped down and hiked out. Feb 17, 2016
ChadC
San Diego CA
 
ChadC   San Diego CA
 
The 4th pitch is one of the best pitches I have climbed in San Diego. I have done both variation on the last pitch and I think the left 10c one is the best.

The anchor for the last pitch pretty far past the ledge. Usually I use my end of the climbing rope to make a extra long anchor using clove hitches to get it over the edge.

You can also skip the first two 5.9 pitches by climbing Ring Finger (5.10 a/b) and just cut out right once you get to the traverse ledge. A fun variation that makes the climb a little bit shorter and sweeter. Feb 24, 2014
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
The traverse pitch was a little tricky, it literally goes right immediately off the belay, don't try to go up and right (which also looks possible if you miss the first bolt, which I did). Aug 29, 2011