Nesting falcons reported, 2012 through 2015
: A buddy and I got dive bombed in the same spot (2nd pitch belay station for Rock Jungle
). It looks like this might be a permanent home for these guys. I'm going to give them space and I hope others do the same. It appeared that two of the birds were possibly juveniles.
This route is a beautiful gently overhanging crack and is the left of the two 12a trad lines on the wall. Move right from the belay carefully on loose but apparently stable holds to establish in the crack. Punch it 100' through the amazingly technical crack and face climbing until you approach the final bulge where you will move right into Charybdis. Save the bigger pieces for the upper half, especially a #3 for the end. This climb is difficult, but very climbable and the gear is excellent so give it a go!
The twin cracks are obvious as you wrap around the cliff to the left. You will have to traverse the grassy ledge up and left, and climb a grassy 5.10a approach pitch to establish at the base of the climb.
Double set to #3 C4. Bolts at starting and finishing anchors.