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Routes in Left Wall

Baby Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruise Line S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Route, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Friendly Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Straw, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Offspring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prime Rib S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Jungle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scylla T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shining Slab, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Southwest Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tail Tucker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tail Tucker Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Kevin Worrall and Sean Shannon
Page Views: 344 total · 22/month
Shared By: SCherry on Jan 10, 2017
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details
Access Issue: Nesting falcons reported, 2012 through 2015 Details

Description

Prime Rib is an excellent pitch of sustained and clean climbing up an exposed arete thats sandwiched in between the routes "Prime Rib" and "Direct Route".

The Prime Rib pitch is reached by climbing the first 2 pitches of "Direct Route" (11a, 11a and each 100ft with 8-10 bolts) up to the "Pedestal Belay" at the base of a large right facing corner (this corner is the 3rd, 10a pitch, of Direct Route). Its possible to link these pitches with good rope management.

From the Pedestal Belay step down and left out to the arete and clip the first bolt. Continue up the arete (using both sides) to a small bulge with an obvious crack undercling arching in from the left. Surmount the bulge and the delicate face climbing crux above it, and continue up for another 60 feet along the arete, to a belay on a nice ledge.

From here you can continue up the last 2 pitches of Prime Time (11b) if you have a small rack of cams, or move right into the top of the 10a corner pitch of "Direct Route" and finish with that route's 11d crux last pitch.

Location

Begins with the first pitch of "Direct Route" about 100 yards below Lunch Rock.

Protection

16 quickdraws (the Prime Rib pitch is long!)

Photos

Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
  5.12a/b
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
  5.12a/b
Prime Rib is a phenomenal pitch of sustained, technical climbing (it's stout!). The position, exposure, and sequences are 4-star. However, I felt like several of the bolts were placed unnecessarily high, making it difficult to clip from comfortable stances. I'm 5'11" and I had to either stretch or climb into awkward positions to clip. That being said, I still really enjoyed it. Feb 22, 2018

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