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Prime Rib
5.12a/b,
Sport, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 6
votes
FA: Kevin Worrall and Sean Shannon
California
> San Diego County
> S San Diego County
> Eagle Peak
> Left Wall
Access Issue: Nesting falcons reported, 2012 through 2015
Details
AJ Tay: A buddy and I got dive bombed in the same spot (2nd pitch belay station for
Rock Jungle). It looks like this might be a permanent home for these guys. I'm going to give them space and I hope others do the same. It appeared that two of the birds were possibly juveniles.
Description
Prime Rib is an excellent pitch of sustained and clean climbing up an exposed arete thats sandwiched in between the routes "Prime Rib" and "Direct Route".
The Prime Rib pitch is reached by climbing the first 2 pitches of "Direct Route" (11a, 11a and each 100ft with 8-10 bolts) up to the "Pedestal Belay" at the base of a large right facing corner (this corner is the 3rd, 10a pitch, of Direct Route). Its possible to link these pitches with good rope management.
From the Pedestal Belay step down and left out to the arete and clip the first bolt. Continue up the arete (using both sides) to a small bulge with an obvious crack undercling arching in from the left. Surmount the bulge and the delicate face climbing crux above it, and continue up for another 60 feet along the arete, to a belay on a nice ledge.
From here you can continue up the last 2 pitches of Prime Time (11b) if you have a small rack of cams, or move right into the top of the 10a corner pitch of "Direct Route" and finish with that route's 11d crux last pitch.
Location
Begins with the first pitch of "Direct Route" about 100 yards below Lunch Rock.
Protection
16 quickdraws (the Prime Rib pitch is long!)
[Hide Photo] Incredible pitch of hard climbing
[Hide Photo] good stance to negotiate the technical crux above the bulge.
[Hide Photo] This is me moving back onto "Direct Route". A couple bolts into the 10a corner pitch (and just below that pitch's crux) Photo credit: Peter Winter
Cardiff, CA
San Diego, CA
California