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Prime Rib

5.12a/b, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 6 votes
FA: Kevin Worrall and Sean Shannon
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Eagle Peak > Left Wall
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Description

Prime Rib is an excellent pitch of sustained and clean climbing up an exposed arete thats sandwiched in between the routes "Prime Rib" and "Direct Route".

The Prime Rib pitch is reached by climbing the first 2 pitches of "Direct Route" (11a, 11a and each 100ft with 8-10 bolts) up to the "Pedestal Belay" at the base of a large right facing corner (this corner is the 3rd, 10a pitch, of Direct Route). Its possible to link these pitches with good rope management.

From the Pedestal Belay step down and left out to the arete and clip the first bolt. Continue up the arete (using both sides) to a small bulge with an obvious crack undercling arching in from the left. Surmount the bulge and the delicate face climbing crux above it, and continue up for another 60 feet along the arete, to a belay on a nice ledge.

From here you can continue up the last 2 pitches of Prime Time (11b) if you have a small rack of cams, or move right into the top of the 10a corner pitch of "Direct Route" and finish with that route's 11d crux last pitch.

Location

Begins with the first pitch of "Direct Route" about 100 yards below Lunch Rock.

Protection

16 quickdraws (the Prime Rib pitch is long!)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Incredible pitch of hard climbing
[Hide Photo] Incredible pitch of hard climbing
good stance to negotiate the technical crux above the bulge.
[Hide Photo] good stance to negotiate the technical crux above the bulge.
This is me moving back onto "Direct Route". A couple bolts into the 10a corner pitch (and just below that pitch's crux)<br>
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Photo credit: Peter Winter
[Hide Photo] This is me moving back onto "Direct Route". A couple bolts into the 10a corner pitch (and just below that pitch's crux) Photo credit: Peter Winter

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Prime Rib is a phenomenal pitch of sustained, technical climbing (it's stout!). The position, exposure, and sequences are 4-star. However, I felt like several of the bolts were placed unnecessarily high, making it difficult to clip from comfortable stances. I'm 5'11" and I had to either stretch or climb into awkward positions to clip. That being said, I still really enjoyed it. Feb 22, 2018
J R
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I agree with Greg about the bolt placement being somewhat high to clip from the natural stances. Iā€™m 5ā€™10ā€ and was stretching to get the first few draws clipped. Amazing Pitch not to be missed. Well protected at cruxes and some thoughtful moves. all the stars. Dec 23, 2020
Bryce U
California
 
[Hide Comment] Great pitch. Nice sustained 5.11 climbing with a distinct crux. Agree about lots of the bolts being about a foot too high. It's never heady but at 5'10" I kept having to do a move into a tenuous position to get the clip rather than on the nice edge a foot lower. Dec 17, 2022