5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft (39 m)|
|FA:||Colin Moorhead, July 23, 2022|
|Page Views:||176 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Colin Moorhead on Jul 25, 2022 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
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Information from: www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/…
Stawamus/ Indian River FSR 4823
- September 15 - November 15, 2022 - Road closed due to major bridge replacement at 1km. Closure will also restrict access to Shannon branch road
- 4WD access only; seasonally deactivated
- Shannon branch 4823.2 (to Stawamus Chief) of Stawamus/ Indian
- 4WD access only
- Active industrial operations, use caution. Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no road access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles will be available at the 4.2km location.
- Inquiries regarding the Sea to Sky Gondola should be directed to the licensee Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
A more direct and striking version of Jason Greens original Demon Sweat.
Demon Days starts on Shock Collars For Christmas (all previous known ascents started on Meltdown). Moving past the anchor of SCFC adds an exciting balancing crux (11+) traverse with a precarious high rock over into the start undercling where the original DS comes in from Meltdown. Climb the bulk of the Demon Sweat line, passing the crux (12+/13-) which entails powerful straight on, pressure laybacking off decent inverted incuts. Where DS continues following the diagonal left to an anchor DD pulls out into the straight up headwall crack. The straightforward looking fingers to hands size crack throws out a slightly horrendous off fingers crux (12-) right below the top that could tragically thwart the send.
Quite an epic pitch!
Roughly a double set ranging from tiny cams up to #1BD. Plenty of small to medium nuts, offsets seem to work well. Some triples but which sizes will vary for different people. My specific redpoint rack included 4 .75 size, a 000c3, one #4 camalot. I didn't clip the Shock Collars anchor or the single protection bolt which i believe was designed for protecting the traverse off the SC anchor. Skipping the bolts feels kind of bold and would be spooky on an onsight. If you think you are going up for a working session or to set up a top rope bringing some tiny wires is helpful for aiding through and/or working the crux. 80m rope is perfect for lowering and top roping, otherwise possible to lower twice with a 60m or 70m.
You can decrease the physical difficulty of the crux by running it out or decrease the mental difficulty by fiddling in a blind RP.
Anchor bolts and hardware provided by the Sea to Sky bolt fund, please support the bolt fund : https://www.seatoskyclimbing.ca/donate