Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: Colin Moorhead, July 23, 2022
Page Views: 176 total · 17/month
Shared By: Colin Moorhead on Jul 25, 2022 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Camping Details


A more direct and striking version of Jason Greens original Demon Sweat.

Demon Days starts on Shock Collars For Christmas (all previous known ascents started on Meltdown). Moving past the anchor of SCFC adds an exciting balancing crux (11+) traverse with a precarious high rock over into the start undercling where the original DS comes in from Meltdown. Climb the bulk of the Demon Sweat line, passing the crux (12+/13-) which entails powerful straight on, pressure laybacking off decent inverted incuts.  Where DS continues following the diagonal left to an anchor DD pulls out into the straight up headwall crack. The straightforward looking fingers to hands size crack throws out a slightly horrendous off fingers crux (12-) right below the top that could tragically thwart the send. 

Quite an epic pitch!


Roughly a double set ranging from tiny cams up to #1BD. Plenty of small to medium nuts, offsets seem to work well. Some triples but which sizes will vary for different people. My specific redpoint rack included 4 .75 size, a 000c3, one #4 camalot. I didn't clip the Shock Collars anchor or the single protection bolt which i believe was designed for protecting the traverse off the SC anchor. Skipping the bolts feels kind of bold and would be spooky on an onsight. If you think you are going up for a working session or to set up a top rope bringing some tiny wires is helpful for aiding through and/or working the crux. 80m rope is perfect for lowering and top roping, otherwise possible to lower twice with a 60m or 70m.

You can decrease the physical difficulty of the crux by running it out or decrease the mental difficulty by fiddling in a blind RP.

Anchor bolts and hardware provided by the Sea to Sky bolt fund, please support the bolt fund : https://www.seatoskyclimbing.ca/donate