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Routes in Top Shelf

Crouching Liger T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cursed Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cursing All The Way S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Demon Sweat T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eye Catcher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Full Slotter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hand Slotter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headbangers in Leather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kitten Fists T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ludovico Technique T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Made From Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maker's Mark T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Meltdown T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Persistance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shock Collars for Christmas T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Top Shelf is a relatively new crag in the Squamish area that is stacked with high quality crack lines. The rock is bomber, the routes are clean, and the lines are aesthetic. My hat goes off to the folks who developed this area, as I'm sure it was no easy task to get this wall to the beautiful condition that it's in. The wall faces northwest and gets shade for most of the day. The base of the wall is very well maintained with logs and flat belay areas. Nearly all of the routes can be climbed with a 60 m rope (always tie knots!), most anchors have fixed draws on them for lowering (don't remove them!), and most folks will want a double set of cams from fingers to wide hands and a #4. It would not be out of the question to bring triples up to a #1 camalot, as many of the routes are so splitter! The only thing lacking at this wall are moderates. Most of the climbs are 5.10 and up, and the grades felt a bit harder than similarly graded climbs in the area. The wall is steeper than it appears, so the climbs tend to be pretty pumpy.

There are quite a few projects on the wall. Please respect those as the route developer has put a lot of hard work in to the line.

Additional info can be found at squamishclimbingsource.com/…

Getting There [Suggest Change]

From Squamish, drive about 1.7 miles (2.7 km) along the Mamquam Forest Service road. When you see the black and yellow "2 up" road sign, keep an eye out for pullouts on the left. There is a very large pullout first, and then a smaller one shortly after. The trailhead is on the right side of the road, closer to the second, small pullout.

Once on the approach trail, hike UPHILL for 20-30 minutes. The trail is easy to follow, but it is STEEP! One fixed rope, but mostly just switchbacks. The first climb you will see once you get to the wall is Eye Catcher (5.10+).

Eye Catcher is pretty much the middle of the wall. To the left, go up a short fixed rope. To the right, the wall should be obvious.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Top Shelf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Cursed Crack
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
Eye Catcher
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Hand Slotter
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Kitten Fists
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Persistance
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Headbangers in Leather
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Meltdown
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Made From Fire
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cursed Crack
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Eye Catcher
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Hand Slotter
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Kitten Fists
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Persistance
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Headbangers in Leather
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Meltdown
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Made From Fire
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
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