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Top Shelf Rock Climbing
Routes in Top Shelf
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Allright for Me T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Baby Beluga T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bob's Your Uncle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Boondock Saints T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crouching Liger T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cursed Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cursing All The Way S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Darkest Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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David Hasselhoffwidth T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deep Blue Sea T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Demon Days T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Demon Sweat T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Ectopic Beats T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Eye Catcher T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Full Slotter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hand Slotter T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Headbangers in Leather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Innocuous T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kitten Fists T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Korova Milk Bar, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Ludovico Technique T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Made From Fire T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Maker's Mark T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Meltdown T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Miasmic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Persistance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shock Collars for Christmas T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Struggle Not T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trippett Out T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 1,792 ft | 546 m |
| GPS: |
49.70087, -123.11425 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 27,965 total · 249/month | |
| Shared By: | Pandy Fackler on Jul 20, 2015 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Access Issue: FSR TEMPORARY CLOSURE
Details
Information from: www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/…
Stawamus/ Indian River FSR 4823
- 4WD access only; seasonally deactivated
- Branch 01 (Stawamus/ Indian mainline)
- Industrial activities 0-1.5km. Expect delays
- Road closed to all users at new gate at 9.5km; May 9 - September 2, 2024 due to construction activities. Traffic control personnel on site.
- Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Stawamus Chief and Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Road closed April 15 – May 31, 2024 Monday-Friday, 07:00-11:00 & 12:00-17:00.
- Occasional road closures June 1 - 28, 2024. Traffic control personnel on site during closures.
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road closures should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- 4WD access only
- Active industrial operations, use caution. Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no road access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles will be available at the 4.2km location
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Top Shelf is a relatively new crag in the Squamish area that is stacked with high quality crack lines. The rock is bomber, the routes are clean, and the lines are aesthetic. My hat goes off to the folks who developed this area, as I'm sure it was no easy task to get this wall to the beautiful condition that it's in. The wall faces northwest and gets shade for most of the day. The base of the wall is very well maintained with logs and flat belay areas. Nearly all of the routes can be climbed with a 60 m rope (always tie knots!), most anchors have fixed draws on them for lowering (don't remove them!), and most folks will want a double set of cams from fingers to wide hands and a #4. It would not be out of the question to bring triples up to a #1 camalot, as many of the routes are so splitter! The only thing lacking at this wall are moderates. Most of the climbs are 5.10 and up, and the grades felt a bit harder than similarly graded climbs in the area. The wall is steeper than it appears, so the climbs tend to be pretty pumpy.
There are quite a few projects on the wall. Please respect those as the route developer has put a lot of hard work in to the line.
Additional info can be found at squamishclimbingsource.word…
Getting There
The closest parking pull out to the trailhead is about 1.7 miles (2.7 km) along the Mamquam Forest Service road. Before you get to the pullout, you'll pass a black and yellow "2 up" road sign on the right. Directly across from the sign, on the left side of the road, is a small pullout. Consider this "pullout 1" A little futher, there is a large pullout on the left with a no camping sign, "pullout 2." And little further is another pullout on the left, "pullout 3." The trail, which starts on the right side of the road, is between pullout 3 and pullout 4 (pullout 4 is a little further along the road). As of June 2019, the trail was marked with orange flagging tape. Using Gaia, the waypoint at the trailhead was 49.70334, -123.11871.
Follow the trail into the forest. The trail is pretty well worn and easy to follow, but steep. After roughly 15 minutes, you'll come to a cairned junction. To the right is the New Dehli and Lantern Wall. Stay left for Top Shelf. After another 15 minutes or so, you'll come to another junction. This junction is about 100 feet away from the base of a dirty, mossy cliff. Go right at this junction, and after a couple minutes you'll you arrive at the well worn base area. Eye Catcher is the obvious left-facing dihedral just to the left of where the trail meets the cliff.
A fixed rope left of Eye Catcher leads to the left side of the wall.
Looking at the photos in McLane and Boyd's 2018 guidebook, it would be easy to mistake the second trail junction as the split between the left and right side of the walls, but this is not the case.
Using Gaia, the waypoint at the base of Eye Catcher was 49.70085, -123.11427.
Follow the trail into the forest. The trail is pretty well worn and easy to follow, but steep. After roughly 15 minutes, you'll come to a cairned junction. To the right is the New Dehli and Lantern Wall. Stay left for Top Shelf. After another 15 minutes or so, you'll come to another junction. This junction is about 100 feet away from the base of a dirty, mossy cliff. Go right at this junction, and after a couple minutes you'll you arrive at the well worn base area. Eye Catcher is the obvious left-facing dihedral just to the left of where the trail meets the cliff.
A fixed rope left of Eye Catcher leads to the left side of the wall.
Looking at the photos in McLane and Boyd's 2018 guidebook, it would be easy to mistake the second trail junction as the split between the left and right side of the walls, but this is not the case.
Using Gaia, the waypoint at the base of Eye Catcher was 49.70085, -123.11427.
Classic Climbing Routes at Top Shelf
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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