Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 665 total · 16/month
Shared By: Mr. Stevens on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This climb is super bad! I mean that in the way that Michael Jackson was Bad. Essentially a harder, and better version of the nearby "Meltdown". The route follows a twin crack system, but the right "crack" is more of just a flare and only usable in a few spots. Make a hard move off the ground and get some good locks and thin, flaring hand jams to a tough move off of a pinch to gain a sloping ledge. Move left on jugs and get a good rest below the thin crack. Place some high pieces and punch it through 20 feet of technical and insecure climbing. Fancy footwork is key to success here as the locks are not that great. Figure out the sequence that works for you and hit the "thank god" hand jam! Some pumpy, 5.9 jamming gets you to the anchors.

This felt quite a bit harder to me than Sentry Box, but that's just, like, you know, my opinion.

Location

to the left of Eye Catcher, at the top of the fixed line.

Protection

The gear I used in order was:

gold BD nut
silver BD nut (big one)
0.5 camalot
#1 camalot
#1 camalot
red DMM offset nut
blue DMM offset nut
red BD nut
blue BD nut (big one)
yellow metolius
#2 camalot
0.75 camalot

Photos

kerwinl
 
kerwinl  
 
Its worth hiking up there just to climb this route, its that good! Oct 23, 2015
Jeremy Park
Seattle, WA
  5.12-
Jeremy Park   Seattle, WA
  5.12-
I have to concur! Probably one of the best hard pitches I've done at Squamish!!! If you climb the requisite grade get on this thing. Here's my gear beta:

2 # 1's
1 # 2
1 # 3
1 #.75
1 # .4
1 # .5
2 # .3
Full set of small to med sized nuts Aug 23, 2017