Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Top Shelf

Crouching Liger T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cursed Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cursing All The Way S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Demon Sweat T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eye Catcher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Full Slotter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hand Slotter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Headbangers in Leather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kitten Fists T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ludovico Technique T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Made From Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maker's Mark T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Meltdown T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Persistance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shock Collars for Christmas T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 593 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mr. Stevens on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This climb is super bad! I mean that in the way that Michael Jackson was Bad. Essentially a harder, and better version of the nearby "Meltdown". The route follows a twin crack system, but the right "crack" is more of just a flare and only usable in a few spots. Make a hard move off the ground and get some good locks and thin, flaring hand jams to a tough move off of a pinch to gain a sloping ledge. Move left on jugs and get a good rest below the thin crack. Place some high pieces and punch it through 20 feet of technical and insecure climbing. Fancy footwork is key to success here as the locks are not that great. Figure out the sequence that works for you and hit the "thank god" hand jam! Some pumpy, 5.9 jamming gets you to the anchors.

This felt quite a bit harder to me than Sentry Box, but that's just, like, you know, my opinion.

Location [Suggest Change]

to the left of Eye Catcher, at the top of the fixed line.

Protection [Suggest Change]

The gear I used in order was:

gold BD nut
silver BD nut (big one)
0.5 camalot
#1 camalot
#1 camalot
red DMM offset nut
blue DMM offset nut
red BD nut
blue BD nut (big one)
yellow metolius
#2 camalot
0.75 camalot

Photos

kerwinl
 
kerwinl  
 
Its worth hiking up there just to climb this route, its that good! Oct 23, 2015
Jeremy Park
Seattle, WA
  5.12-
Jeremy Park   Seattle, WA
  5.12-
I have to concur! Probably one of the best hard pitches I've done at Squamish!!! If you climb the requisite grade get on this thing. Here's my gear beta:

2 # 1's
1 # 2
1 # 3
1 #.75
1 # .4
1 # .5
2 # .3
Full set of small to med sized nuts Aug 23, 2017

More About Made From Fire

Printer-Friendly