Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 260 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mr. Stevens on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Follow wide cracks to the roof. Surmounting the roof is strange, and while I didn't find it to be the crux, I certainly thought it was the "what the hell do I do here?" crux. I found that chimneying with my left side in was the key to success. Be smart about your gear at the lip of the roof or the rope will either get stuck on it or suck it deep in to the crack! Gain the offset, big fingers crack - the feet are thin here, so just keep cranking. The last few moves pinch down to tight fingers, but there's finally some better feet out left.

Location

75 feet left of "Made From Fire"

Protection

Hands to #4 camalot for the bottom and 0.3-0.5 camalots for the upper crack. Heavy on the 0.5 camalot size. Stoppers. 2 fixed pieces on the upper crack as of July 2015.

Photos

Matthew Tangeman
Bellingham, WA
  5.11c
Matthew Tangeman   Bellingham, WA
  5.11c
Killer line I thought. The upper arching finger crack is really striking, and the 10- stuff down low was fun. Roof pull was bizarre but leaves you in a wild and awesome position!

Definitely be careful where you put your gear near the lip of the roof; it's a perfect crack for eating ropes. I didn't totally think that through and got screwed higher up. Aug 25, 2018