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Routes in Top Shelf

Cursed Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cursing All The Way S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye Catcher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand Slotter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Headbangers in Leather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kitten Fists T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Made From Fire T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meltdown T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Persistance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shock Collars for Christmas T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 164 total, 6/month
Shared By: Mr. Stevens on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Follow wide cracks to the roof. Surmounting the roof is strange, and while I didn't find it to be the crux, I certainly thought it was the "what the hell do I do here?" crux. I found that chimneying with my left side in was the key to success. Be smart about your gear at the lip of the roof or the rope will either get stuck on it or suck it deep in to the crack! Gain the offset, big fingers crack - the feet are thin here, so just keep cranking. The last few moves pinch down to tight fingers, but there's finally some better feet out left.

Location

75 feet left of "Made From Fire"

Protection

Hands to #4 camalot for the bottom and 0.3-0.5 camalots for the upper crack. Heavy on the 0.5 camalot size. Stoppers. 2 fixed pieces on the upper crack as of July 2015.

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