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> Mamquam FSR
> Top Shelf
Crouching Liger
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Top Shelf
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Allright for Me T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Baby Beluga T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bob's Your Uncle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Boondock Saints T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crouching Liger T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cursed Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cursing All The Way S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Darkest Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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David Hasselhoffwidth T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deep Blue Sea T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Demon Days T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Demon Sweat T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Ectopic Beats T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Eye Catcher T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Full Slotter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hand Slotter T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Headbangers in Leather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Innocuous T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kitten Fists T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Korova Milk Bar, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Ludovico Technique T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Made From Fire T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Maker's Mark T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Meltdown T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Miasmic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Persistance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shock Collars for Christmas T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Struggle Not T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trippett Out T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.70087, -123.11425 |
| FA: | Drew Marshall, Dee Anna, Nicole Deuchar, Oct 2017 |
| Page Views: | 1,140 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Marshall on May 20, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: FSR CLOSURE
Details
Information from: www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/…
Stawamus/Indian River FSR 4823
Branch 01 (Stawamus/Indian mainline)
- No access to Vancouver via Stawamus/Indian River FSR.
- August 30, 2024 - December 31, 2025: Road closed to all users at gate at 3km due to construction activities. Single lane alternating traffic 0 - 3km. Expect delays. Traffic control on site. Road also closed to all users at 34.5km (no access through Indian Arm). Expect further closures through 2026.
- See Fortis Eagle Mountain-Woodfibre website for more information on the pipeline project.
Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road activities should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no vehicle access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles available at the 4.2km location.
Stawamus/Indian River FSR 4823
Branch 01 (Stawamus/Indian mainline)
- No access to Vancouver via Stawamus/Indian River FSR.
- August 30, 2024 - December 31, 2025: Road closed to all users at gate at 3km due to construction activities. Single lane alternating traffic 0 - 3km. Expect delays. Traffic control on site. Road also closed to all users at 34.5km (no access through Indian Arm). Expect further closures through 2026.
- See Fortis Eagle Mountain-Woodfibre website for more information on the pipeline project.
Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road activities should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no vehicle access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles available at the 4.2km location.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is a wild climb with solid but sometimes tricky gear.
It might be worth rappelling in to scope the gear (and maybe some of the moves!)
You can access the top anchors by hiking straight down from Kitten Fists.
P1 (11b, 25m)
Start as for Maker's Mark, up a fingercrack toward a chimney on the left side of a huge pillar.
Use extendable draws generously as you traverse across the front of the pillar, then climb up its right side.
Once atop the pillar, clip a bolt and techily traverse a dyke, into a flake system out right. Try not to pump out climbing steep flakes to the big ledge (bolt anchor).
Rumour has it that Nicole Deuchar boldly flashed the FA of this pitch before some softy added the bolt
P2 (12b, 15m)
Climb steep finger cracks to the roof, then pull the roof at a seam with an unlikely sequence. Steep fingers and hands to the top!
Descent: 2 raps with a 70 or walk off
Location
At the Bottom Shelf wall.
On the way to Top Shelf, just before the trail meets a 30m wall, take the left fork toward Pilot's Lounge instead of going right toward Top Shelf. Walk about 50m until you can see a nice left-facing corner capped with a roof (Maker's Mark)
Alternatively, hike straight down from Kitten Fists to a big mossy ledge to find the top anchors
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