All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Mamquam FSR > Top Shelf

Meltdown

Name: Meltdown
Rating: 3.6

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Top Shelf

L › R R › L A › Z

	Allright for Me T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Baby Beluga T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bob's Your Uncle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Boondock Saints T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Crouching Liger T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Cursed Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cursing All The Way S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Darkest Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	David Hasselhoffwidth T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Deep Blue Sea T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Demon Days T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Demon Sweat T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Ectopic Beats T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Eye Catcher T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Full Slotter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Hand Slotter T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Headbangers in Leather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Innocuous T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Kitten Fists T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Korova Milk Bar, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Ludovico Technique T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Made From Fire T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Maker's Mark T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Meltdown T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Miasmic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Persistance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Shock Collars for Christmas T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Struggle Not T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Trippett Out T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

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Type:	Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS:	49.70087, -123.11425
FA:	Jason Green, 2012
Page Views:	2,196 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Pandy Fackler on Jul 22, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: FSR CLOSURE Details

Information from: www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/…

Stawamus/Indian River FSR 4823

Branch 01 (Stawamus/Indian mainline)

- No access to Vancouver via Stawamus/Indian River FSR.
- August 30, 2024 - December 31, 2025: Road closed to all users at gate at 3km due to construction activities. Single lane alternating traffic 0 - 3km. Expect delays. Traffic control on site. Road also closed to all users at 34.5km (no access through Indian Arm). Expect further closures through 2026.
- See Fortis Eagle Mountain-Woodfibre website for more information on the pipeline project.

Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Sea to Sky Gondola)

- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road activities should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no vehicle access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles available at the 4.2km location.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Thin and technical sums it up. Use twin cracks and the occasional face hold to make your way up. The cracks have decent locks, but are also a bit flaring. I was able to get several "finger lock + flared hand jams" and the occasional layback. Focus on your footwork as you can get good feet in the pods and flares. The climb broke down to having three hard sections (each harder than the last), separated by good, active rests. Once you hit the arete, there's still some pumpy finger locks that get you to the chains.