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Routes in Main Wall
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Blue Collar Comedy Tour S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blue Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chop Suey Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Derrickman, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Donuts and Nicotine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Exfoliation Station T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flaked Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Guillotine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iliad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Key to the V Door T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Krispy Kreme T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Original Roughneck T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rapa Nui S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rig Builder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Roughneck Odyssey T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ruffian Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Squatter (in the White House) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thread the Needle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tic-Tac-Toe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tool Pusher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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XOX T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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XXX T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.52249, -105.39054 |
| FA: | FA: NB (rope-solo); FFA: NB and KS |
| Page Views: | 530 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Nov 9, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
P1 requires a very diverse set of “blue collar” type climbing skills! Climb the shallow, left-facing corner marked by 3 grey bolts and a small pine. At the end of the corner, continue into a nice flake, protected by small to medium cams, which leads to the arching chimney thing at a (4th) bolt (Iliad moves onto the right wall just below this bolt). Make weird chimney-like moves past this to gain a stemming dihedral and a couple more bolts. Pull up and onto a ramp of sorts, and continue past a bolt and gear to where it’s possible to step left onto the face. A small TCU and #2 Camalot are good here. Crank a small overlap, and climb the face and crux roof above on 3 more bolts to an anchor on the ramp/ledge.
P2. Climb the short hand crack to the top (right side) of the Guillotine feature, then go up an easy (~5.6) chimney/groove to an anchor. This basically the top, or at least the top of any 5th Cass climbing. You can continue up another 50' or so of busy 4th Class to gain the summit.
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