Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: L. Stern & D. Montgomery, 5/18/13
Page Views: 697 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monty on May 19, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

This is an adventurous route that follows the most obvious, diagonal splitter on the wall.

P1. (10+, 110 feet) Start on the right side of a pillar, and work your way up and slightly right to a splitter hand crack in a corner. 3 bolts and a couple #1 camalots protect the moves through the funky roofs.  Make sure to put a sling on the second bolt or face crippling drag from the downward facing flake.  Belay at a bolted stance above the second roof. (Note:  this pitch was originally done without any bolts, but was retro'd by the FA party in 2020 to make it safer.  The 3rd bolt in the roof is next to a #2 camalot placement, but the rock didn't inspire confidence so we added a this bolt.)

P2, (9, 165 feet) This is an airy pitch that begins by climbing the crack above the belay until reaching a small, half dead tree. Place good gear and traverse left around the corner (spicy). Carefully pull around another roof and continue following the arete and various crack systems. Towards the top of the wall, angle right and belay at a bush ledge where it is possible to scramble the remaining way.

Descent: From the top, rap 85 feet off the back side of the Rough Neck Wall via an obvious large tree and descend a scree field until it is possible to loop right to your packs.

Location

This is in the middle of the Rough Neck Wall.

Protection

Standard rack. Triples in #1s can be helpful on P1.

Photos