All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Old Mill Area > Roughneck Area > Main Wall

Guillotine

Name: Guillotine
Rating: 3.7

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British

Routes in Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chop Suey Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Derrickman, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Donuts and Nicotine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Exfoliation Station T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flaked Out T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Guillotine T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Iliad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Key to the V Door T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Original Roughneck T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rapa Nui S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Rig Builder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Roughneck Odyssey T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Ruffian Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Thread the Needle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tic-Tac-Toe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tool Pusher S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	XOX T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	XXX T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

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Type:	Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA:	bolted and cleaned by NB; redpointed by NB and KS a few days later
Page Views:	709 total · 20/month
Shared By:	nbrown on Oct 12, 2021
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

With a slab down low, roof in the middle, and a hand crack up high, the first pitch is one of the more diverse at the crag. Start atop the apex of the cliff’s base on a flat rock (The “Chopping Block”).

P1. Climb the bolted, slabby face on cool smears and edges past a small overlap and into a triangular, stemming corner. At this point, the route does a 180 and becomes a perfect hand/fist crack through the roof and the headwall above. Belay at a shared anchor on the ledge. There’s a bolt at the lip to keep the rope out of the crack (and so we don’t tempt fate by putting gear into the flake). The flake flexes on the bottom but would not come off with even the largest of crowbars. I use it to chimney on. Gear: cannot recall # of bolts -- maybe 10?. For the crack, it is nice to have one # 1, two #2s, and two #3s.

P2. This is worth doing to get to the top. Continue up the moderate corner on gear to an anchor at the beginning of the 3rd Class finish, ~ 5.7. Scramble up from here or descend.