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Routes in Main Wall
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Blackbeard's Tears T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Full Mast S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Great White S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Great White Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Humboldt Current S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hyperion S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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King Salmon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Libet's Delay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Loose Cannon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lost At Sea S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Megalodon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Mermaid, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moonraker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Poseidon's Fury S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pulling Teeth S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Redwood Burl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Redwood Burl Direct S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Ride The Woody S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Scared Straight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Scurvy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shipwreck (aka Shitwreck) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shrapnel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tooth Decay S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Vista Del Norte S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Evan wisheropp |
| Page Views: | 443 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Sep 30, 2021 |
| Admins: | Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Climb to the third bolt of Pulling Teeth and fork left into another line of pockets. At the ramp, if you fork right, back into the anchor of Pulling Teeth, that is "Tooth Decay" FA: Eric Chemello. Tooth Decay was pretty much never repeated because it used one RB (removable bolt). I rebolted the line with titanium and added this direct finish called Libet's Delay.
Rest up on the ledge best you can then punch it to the top on a tough sloper rail. Hit a heel hook finish to clip the anchor. Many folks will appreciate using a clip-stick or stiffy draw to hang the draws before going for the send.
Libet's Delay is the delay between when your body receives a stimulus and when your brain acknowledges it. Once you try the crux, it'll all make sense, the move is so tenuous, you'll likely find yourself hanging on the rope before you realize you're off!
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