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Routes in Main Wall

Blackbeard's Tears T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Great White S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Humboldt Current S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost At Sea S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mermaid, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poseidon's Fury S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pulling Teeth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Redwood Burl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ride The Woody S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scared Straight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Scurvy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shipwreck (aka Shitwreck) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrapnel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ethan Pringle
Page Views: 132 total, 18/month
Shared By: Lurker on May 9, 2017
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Steep arete to face on the far left side of the main wall. The crux comes about halfway up, transitioning onto the face.

Location

Furthest left route on the Main Wall, just before a steep dropoff to the ocean.

Protection

~12 bolts, rap anchors.

Photos

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Sic Nabo
  5.12c/d
Sic Nabo  
  5.12c/d
Very cool position! Manages to feel exposed while you're still on the ground reaching for start holds :D

Some safety-related beta: Taylor Morrow, one of the developers of this route, advised pre-hanging both a quickdraw and a long sling from the third draw so you can clip earlier, as there is a potential for a bad fall if you blow it with only the second bolt clipped and the rock quality is not amazing in that section. I used a double length sling for this and it worked well, but a single might be fine if not better. There are plans to move/add bolts to address this eventually, but for now I think this is a necessary procedure.

Also, I'd say it's mandatory to pre-clip the rope on the first and maybe even second draw.

Yes, a lot of stick clip shenanigans are required to do this route safely, but it's a legitimately good route and needs some traffic + lovin'.

Lastly, does anyone know where the crag stick-clip went?! It's not in the usual hiding spot... Jul 30, 2017
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Yeah, you all think that "steep dropoff to the ocean" deserves a rap anchor to make it easier to get to work on those routes gracing the north wall? Aren't there some good lines there? Pretty lines for the picking, if my memory serves me correctly... post-rapping, starting down low there, on the other side of the arĂȘte, might be the way to enjoy the edge of the rock to the top? May 10, 2017