Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ethan Pringle
Page Views: 217 total · 11/month
Shared By: Lurker on May 9, 2017
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Steep arete to face on the far left side of the main wall. The crux comes about halfway up, transitioning onto the face.

Location

Furthest left route on the Main Wall, just before a steep dropoff to the ocean.

Protection

~12 bolts, rap anchors.

Photos

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Sic Nabo
  5.12c/d
Sic Nabo  
  5.12c/d
Very cool position! Manages to feel exposed while you're still on the ground reaching for start holds :D

Some safety-related beta: Taylor Morrow, one of the developers of this route, advised pre-hanging both a quickdraw and a long sling from the third draw so you can clip earlier, as there is a potential for a bad fall if you blow it with only the second bolt clipped and the rock quality is not amazing in that section. I used a double length sling for this and it worked well, but a single might be fine if not better. There are plans to move/add bolts to address this eventually, but for now I think this is a necessary procedure.

Also, I'd say it's mandatory to pre-clip the rope on the first and maybe even second draw.

Yes, a lot of stick clip shenanigans are required to do this route safely, but it's a legitimately good route and needs some traffic + lovin'.

Lastly, does anyone know where the crag stick-clip went?! It's not in the usual hiding spot... Jul 30, 2017