Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall

Blackbeard's Tears T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Great White S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Humboldt Current S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost At Sea S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mermaid, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poseidon's Fury S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pulling Teeth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Redwood Burl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ride The Woody S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scared Straight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Scurvy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shipwreck (aka Shitwreck) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrapnel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: FA Matthias Holladay, FFA Ethan Pringle
Page Views: 4,979 total, 41/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Oct 31, 2007
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The 1st route done on the cliff, an obvious stunning black crack surmounting a severely overhanging wave of stone. Originally climbed on aid, this route was recently freed by Ethan Pringle and may be be one of the hardest traditional routes in California, if not the world. As a free climb, Blackbeard's Tears logically breaks up into 3 sections.

P1: 5.10+, 40', gear to 3", new titanium glue-in anchors. Crux comes pulling a small roof about 20' up.

P2: 5.13c (?), 80' (from the ground), gear to 3" (heavy on the small stuff), rap anchors that appear to be in decent condition. The wall starts to steepen and the holds get thin...

P3: 5.14c (?), 120' (from the ground), anchors. Mega-steep, with an apparent V11 bulge past the second anchors, and maybe a second, harder crux up higher.

Get some!!!

Protection

Standard rack/thin aid gear
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Finally! So the FFA of Blackbeard's Tears! Wow.
Brilliant Work, Ethan!

Blackbeard’s Tears, ahh... its fissure, its proximity to some white-noise cacophony of wind, and wave-shore action...

This is that rare kind of cliff that has the ability to intrinsically "gift us" an awesome flow experience...

Perhaps you know this; it's the sharing of the rope, and the willing desire to seek out the uncertainty of new routes; it's that fabulous feeling of fun, totally being there in the moment; it's loving that immediacy of reality on the rock as we happily interpret it; and it's those pleasurable fun-times we have here that many of us use as a standard by which we rank similar experiences.

Listen!...a steep gymnastic path of vertigo-fantastic positioning is there waiting for you! and likely in its solitude...

Berg Heil,
M. Sep 23, 2016
Ethan Pringle made the first free ascent of this beast, all the way to the top. He proposed a grade of 14c. Although he used hand-jammies for the crux, so it's really like the 5th aid ascent or something.... Sep 23, 2016
There are some excellent ones in California Climber alongside your commentary. If you didn't get your copy yet, I'll send you one (PM me your address). I would post photos if I had any of my own without others' copyright. Oct 5, 2015
Benjamin F
Crescent City, CA
Benjamin F   Crescent City, CA
Nic Sabo one hung the second pitch, and thinks it goes at around 13c. This thing is getting freed reeeeal soon! Sep 28, 2015
Lurker
Verdi, NV
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
New titanium glue-in anchors at the top of the 5.10+/5.11- section. Feb 23, 2015