Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Routes in Main Wall
|Blackbeard's Tears T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b|
|Great White S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Humboldt Current S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Lost At Sea S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Mermaid, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Poseidon's Fury S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Pulling Teeth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Redwood Burl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Ride The Woody S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Scared Straight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Scurvy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Shipwreck (aka Shitwreck) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Shrapnel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||FA Matthias Holladay, FFA Ethan Pringle|
|Page Views:||4,979 total, 41/month|
|Shared By:||Matthias Holladay on Oct 31, 2007|
|Admins:||Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe 1st route done on the cliff, an obvious stunning black crack surmounting a severely overhanging wave of stone. Originally climbed on aid, this route was recently freed by Ethan Pringle and may be be one of the hardest traditional routes in California, if not the world. As a free climb, Blackbeard's Tears logically breaks up into 3 sections.
P1: 5.10+, 40', gear to 3", new titanium glue-in anchors. Crux comes pulling a small roof about 20' up.
P2: 5.13c (?), 80' (from the ground), gear to 3" (heavy on the small stuff), rap anchors that appear to be in decent condition. The wall starts to steepen and the holds get thin...
P3: 5.14c (?), 120' (from the ground), anchors. Mega-steep, with an apparent V11 bulge past the second anchors, and maybe a second, harder crux up higher.