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Routes in Main Wall

Blackbeard's Tears T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Great White S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Humboldt Current S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost At Sea S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mermaid, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poseidon's Fury S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pulling Teeth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Redwood Burl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ride The Woody S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scared Straight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Scurvy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shipwreck (aka Shitwreck) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrapnel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Eric Chemello
Page Views: 266 total · 7/month
Shared By: Lurker on Jan 20, 2015
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Great White's slightly harder sibling. Crux is a big span going right past the 2nd bolt. Stays on you as the wall steepens past the 4th bolt. Needs traffic. New titanium glue-in bolts.

Location

Third route on the middle section of the Main Wall, just left of Great White.

Protection

10 bolts, anchors.

Photos

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Evan Wisheropp
  5.12d
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.12d
I realize now what you mean by "falling off with both hands on jugs" after having two holds come off in my hands. Not optimal, but damn exciting!! Fantastic route. Aug 23, 2015
Sic Nabo  
 
Less juggy and a few harder moves than Great White. Hardest move is a huge extension down low, though there is another cruxy sequence about halfway up. Redpoint crux is probably managing the pump on the sprint to the chains -- many a climber has punted off screaming with both hands on jugs and an unclipped waist-high bolt! Jul 30, 2015