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Routes in The Dark Side
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American Dream S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Barn Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Big Burley S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Count Dooku S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dagobah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Death Star, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Departure, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Elephant Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Evil Emperor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Force, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grand Inquisitor (Closed Project- Direct Start), The S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Grippy Green S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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It's a Trap! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Jedi Mind Trick S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Mama Benson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mind Meld S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Non Starter S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Obi-Wan Kenobi S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Order 66 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Padawan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Phantom Menace S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Praestantissimum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Redneck Jedi T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Return of Darth Moll S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Shanghai S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Small Fry S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stormtrooper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Straight Outta Campton S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Straight Outta Locash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Swingline S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Swingline Direct (Closed Project) S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Techulicious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tuskan Raider S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Wookie Love Nest S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Young Jedi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Younglings S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 37.67874, -83.73759 |
| FA: | Bill Ramsey 2003. Equipper Hugh Loeffler 2000 |
| Page Views: | 550 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Looby on Apr 19, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Description
This climb doesn't get done very often due to the trio of very good and popular 13b's at this cliff (and due to the weird A0 start), but it is definitely worth getting on.
The guidebook says A0 to the first bolt but I think jugging up to the second bolt is fair. Either grab some bad holds near the second bolt and go to the ledge off of some bad feet, or you may be able to just reach up to the ledge. Traverse right, make a couple moves up, then traverse back left. Climb a few moves to gain the rest before the crux. Take on the crux which will involve a series of bad pinches, pockets, and edges. Make a difficult clip and get through a few more tough moves to get to the large flake. Climb easier terrain to the anchors.
Rumor has it that this climb has been done from the ground but I don't know for sure and don't know what the grade would be.
1 Comment