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Routes in The Dark Side

American Dream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barn Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Burly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Count Dooku S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dagobah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephant Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Evil Emperor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Force, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grippy Green S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
It's a Trap! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mama Benson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Meld S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Padawan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phantom Menace S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Praestantissimum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Return of Darth Moll S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shanghai S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Small Fry S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stormtrooper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight Outta Campton S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Swing Line S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Techulicious S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tusken Raider S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wookie Love Nest S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Jedi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Dustin Stephens, Will Sweeney in 2014
Page Views: 254 total, 8/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on May 4, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

A long route that starts out slabby and gets progressively steeper. Lots of thin edging, and technical moves.

Follow a faint lie-back groove to a horizontal break below a blank looking face. Crimp and wander up the wall, heading towards the obvious flake at 1/3 height. Follow this flake to some good holds then do a very reachy and thin crux to gain jugs on the steeper headwall. Fun iron protrusions lead to classic RRG pockets which end at a distinctive triangle feature sticking out of the wall. "Mantle" past this using some small edges, and cruise to the chains.

The rock down low is still cleaning up so tread lightly.

Location

Just right of Grippy Green.

Protection

Glue in bolts and a two bolt anchor that has carabiners.

Photos

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Brilliant route with all kinds of climbing. Perfectly bolted. The low crux is a pretty absurd proposition, but very well protected so you can focus on the task at hand. Oct 31, 2016