Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Dark Side

American Dream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barn Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Burly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Count Dooku S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dagobah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephant Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Evil Emperor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Force, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grippy Green S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
It's a Trap! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mama Benson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Meld S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Padawan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phantom Menace S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Praestantissimum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Return of Darth Moll S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shanghai S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Small Fry S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stormtrooper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight Outta Campton S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Swing Line S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Techulicious S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tusken Raider S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wookie Love Nest S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Jedi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Chris Martin, 2000
Page Views: 1,352 total, 12/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

American Dream is the kind of ultra-classic jug haul that the Red is famous for. The route has no significant crux, but a continuous string of challenging & engaging moves that deliver a good pump and complete satisfaction.

Begin by scrambling up the big ramp to the first line of bolts. A long reach to an obvious slopey hueco below the second bolt provides the hardest individual move. A series of enjoyable underclings & crossing moves, intermixed with good jugs, lead to the anchor.

Location

Beginning from the large ramp at the left end of the Dark Side, American Dream is the furthest route right above the ramp.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Some people stick clip the 2nd bolt, since the hardest move comes right above the first bolt.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
I preclipped the second, make a long reach up to clip the first then clip yourself into the first with another draw, attaching to the top biner on the draw on the wall and you should be able to reach up and clip the second draw without too much trouble, unless you are height impaired. Even having to pull off the ledge to clip the first could prove spooky to some. Nov 7, 2009