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Routes in The Dark Side

American Dream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barn Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Burly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Count Dooku S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dagobah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephant Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Evil Emperor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Force, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grippy Green S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
It's a Trap! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mama Benson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Meld S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Padawan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phantom Menace S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Praestantissimum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Return of Darth Moll S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shanghai S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Small Fry S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stormtrooper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight Outta Campton S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Swing Line S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Techulicious S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tusken Raider S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wookie Love Nest S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Jedi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Chris martin, 2000
Page Views: 1,190 total, 11/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

One of the classic routes of the grade, Shanghai ascends an intimidating wave of bullet sandstone. The route begins with an awkward scramble up the unfortunate ramp. Begin a bit left of the bolt line with a long reach (and a long draw) to clip the second bolt. Match the big hold & cut your feet to get established on the wall. Enduro jugs lead to a cool undercling move to a horn, then more jugs to an obvious blank section visible from the ground. A series of big crux moves, with a bigger pump leads to a strenuous clip at the anchor.

Location

On the left end of the Dark Side cave, this route is the second route from the left, beginning from the big ramp. Next route right of Mama Benson.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Clip another 2-3 bolts on the ramp traverse.

Photos

Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
  5.12d
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
  5.12d
It is 12d in all three guidebooks. It is probably low in the grade, but much harder than most 12c's at the red. Aug 18, 2012
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
5.12c
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
5.12c
This is not an indictment on the venerable user that entered this route, but the current consensus is 12c for Shanghai. Mar 3, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Dude, you just blew everyone's onsight with that key piece of beta! Shh! Nov 12, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
I found that when you first arrive at the anchors it is strenuous to clip but if you move a bit further you wil be rewarded. Nov 7, 2009