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Routes in The Dark Side

American Dream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barn Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Burly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Count Dooku S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dagobah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephant Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Evil Emperor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Force, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grippy Green S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
It's a Trap! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mama Benson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Meld S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Padawan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phantom Menace S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Praestantissimum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Return of Darth Moll S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shanghai S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Small Fry S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stormtrooper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight Outta Campton S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Swing Line S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Techulicious S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tusken Raider S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wookie Love Nest S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Jedi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Chris Martin - 2000
Page Views: 4,653 total · 45/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Oct 28, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

You will be happy if you have small fingers on this thing at the start and the finish.

Start with a boulder problem off the ground making use of a tight three-finger slot. Punch your way through the pocket band getting spragues and pinches, finishing at a jug below the first embedded stone. Move up through a slopey boulder problem, then cruise to the next embedded stone. Head up to the final smoother headwall and make your way up crimps and another tight pocket to the anchors.

Location

This route is in the middle left of the main wall. It is the third route from the left that starts from the ground and is easily identified by the two large embedded stones that it climbs through, slightly to the right.

Protection

Seven bolts to a bolted anchor.

Photos

Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Never underestimate the punt potential at the top of this guy. It's easy bolt-to-bolt, but you may find the irresistible attraction of a certain force pulling you downward too strong to resist. Oct 25, 2016

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