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Routes in The Dark Side

American Dream S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Barn Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Burly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Count Dooku S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dagobah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephant Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Evil Emperor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Force, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grippy Green S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
It's a Trap! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mama Benson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Meld S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Padawan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phantom Menace S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Praestantissimum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Return of Darth Moll S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Shanghai S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Small Fry S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stormtrooper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight Outta Campton S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Swing Line S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Techulicious S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tusken Raider S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wookie Love Nest S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Jedi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 644 total · 11/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Oct 13, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

This is the "slabby" route that everybody looks at on their way to the steep routes at the Dark Side. However, few people stop to sample the intricate moves, interesting holds, and easy but spicy finish.

Follow a pretty, left arching flake past two bolts to a shake below the first crux. Small seams, and crimps gain a rail which leads right and up to a hueco with good holds in the back. Easy edges and amazing chicken heads peter-out to small iron rock protrusions just below a horizontal break. Brave a 15 foot runout on steeper, easier terrain to reach the next bolt. Typical pumpy moves lead to the chains.

Location

Just off the trail, left of Small Fry.

Protection

Bolts to a two bolt anchor. 60 meter rope to get down.

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