Elevation: 1,117 ft
GPS: 37.679, -83.738 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 29,861 total · 212/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

Description

The Dark Side is a steep, pocketed wall of dark gray sandstone, similar in character to the Motherlode. Boasting the second largest concentration of 5.13 sport routes at the Red, the Dark Side is a great place to find a good project. Additionally, the crag features a number of excellent 5.12s of every grade. The options are limited in the 5.11 & below range, but there are a handful of moderates if warming up on 12a is not your thing.

The routes here are extremely steep, some of the steepest at the Red, climbing a bulging wall at a nearly constant 45 degree angle. Several body-sized huecos provide great rests on some lines, while other lines are more sustained. The cliff faces north, so receives all-day shade, making this a good option on warmer days. Also, the vast majority of the lines here stay dry in the rain.

Getting There

From KY 11, take Fixer Rd, then take the first left. Follow this windy, paved road for a while, and continue as the road turns to dirt, passing a few houses. These roads are passable when wet. After ~1 mile of dirt, turn right onto another dirt road opposite an oil tank. Stay left, then park at an obvious RRGCC kiosk. Behind the kiosk, locate a trail that crosses the creek. Follow the trail for ~10 minutes, passing signed turn-offs to the Gold Coast & Solar Collector. Switch-back up the steep hill to the cliff, and head right when you first reach the rock. The first route encountered is "Grippy Green", 12a, which begins up a 20-foot-tall, 6"-deep, left-leaning dihedral.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Dark Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Small Fry
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 36
Padawan
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Count Dooku
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Mama Benson
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Grippy Green
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 29
American Dream
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Wookie Love Nest
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 15
Shanghai
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 20
Tuskan Raider
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 29
The Force
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Evil Emperor
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Straight Outta Campton
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Return of Darth Moll
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
Elephant Man
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 3
Swing Line
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Small Fry
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Padawan
 36
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Count Dooku
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mama Benson
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Grippy Green
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
American Dream
 29
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Wookie Love Nest
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Shanghai
 15
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Tuskan Raider
 20
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Force
 29
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Evil Emperor
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Straight Outta Campton
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Return of Darth Moll
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Elephant Man
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Swing Line
 3
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Dark Side »

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