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The Dark Side Rock Climbing
Routes in The Dark Side
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American Dream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Barn Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Big Burly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Count Dooku S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dagobah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Elephant Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Evil Emperor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Force, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grippy Green S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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It's a Trap! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Jedi Mind Trick S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Mama Benson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mind Meld S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Padawan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Phantom Menace S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Praestantissimum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Return of Darth Moll S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Shanghai S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Small Fry S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stormtrooper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Straight Outta Campton S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Straight Outta Locash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Swing Line S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Techulicious S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tuskan Raider S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Wookie Love Nest S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Young Jedi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Younglings S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 1,117 ft |
| GPS: | 37.679, -83.738 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 29,861 total · 212/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek |
Description
The Dark Side is a steep, pocketed wall of dark gray sandstone, similar in character to the Motherlode. Boasting the second largest concentration of 5.13 sport routes at the Red, the Dark Side is a great place to find a good project. Additionally, the crag features a number of excellent 5.12s of every grade. The options are limited in the 5.11 & below range, but there are a handful of moderates if warming up on 12a is not your thing.
The routes here are extremely steep, some of the steepest at the Red, climbing a bulging wall at a nearly constant 45 degree angle. Several body-sized huecos provide great rests on some lines, while other lines are more sustained. The cliff faces north, so receives all-day shade, making this a good option on warmer days. Also, the vast majority of the lines here stay dry in the rain.
The routes here are extremely steep, some of the steepest at the Red, climbing a bulging wall at a nearly constant 45 degree angle. Several body-sized huecos provide great rests on some lines, while other lines are more sustained. The cliff faces north, so receives all-day shade, making this a good option on warmer days. Also, the vast majority of the lines here stay dry in the rain.
Getting There
From KY 11, take Fixer Rd, then take the first left. Follow this windy, paved road for a while, and continue as the road turns to dirt, passing a few houses. These roads are passable when wet. After ~1 mile of dirt, turn right onto another dirt road opposite an oil tank. Stay left, then park at an obvious RRGCC kiosk. Behind the kiosk, locate a trail that crosses the creek. Follow the trail for ~10 minutes, passing signed turn-offs to the Gold Coast & Solar Collector. Switch-back up the steep hill to the cliff, and head right when you first reach the rock. The first route encountered is "Grippy Green", 12a, which begins up a 20-foot-tall, 6"-deep, left-leaning dihedral.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Dark Side
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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