The Open Book

A fantastic early season route and a testament to the power of the wind, The Open Book is the most temporary of alpine ice routes in the northeast. If you’re looking for this route in March, you won't find it. It's probably under at least 30 feet of wind loaded snow. However, in the short window of time between the first freezing temps and the first major snow storms, some excellent moderate ice forms here. The classic Open Book pitch tends to last the longest, depending on the season, the upper pitches could be all snow, or WI2-3 ice. 

Pitch 1:

The money pitch, start up the large open book corner on beautiful low angle ice. Pick your line up the thick ice slab on the left wall. Exit the corner to the left then surmount short, final ice bulge onto a large snow ledge. Belay from ice. WI2

note: If conditions look poor above, this is the best spot to bail.

Pitches 2-3:

The Open Book route technically ends here, but there is still plenty of climbing above you at the snow ledge. Here, the climbing changes character, to a more steppy, alpine mix of ice, snow slopes, ledges and rocks. Most variations go at WI1-WI3 depending on the season and the line you choose. Easier lines can be found to the right and harder ones to the left. Choose your own adventure, ultimately heading for the top of the headwall where you'll find lower angle ground. A 60m rope should make it in 1-2 pitches. 

Descent:

In early season, you'll cross the Tuckerman Ravine Trail once over the convex roll of the headwall. This provides a fast descent to the floor of Tuckerman Ravine. If the TRT is buried in snow, your best option is continue up and right ton the Alpine Garden, the descend Right Gully or Lion's Head Winter Route.

From Hermit Lake Shelter, hike up the Tuckerman Ravine Trail to the floor of the bowl. To the lookers right side of the ravine, you will see a large open book corner with a consistent ice flow running through it. This long ice flow differs noticeably from the surrounding steppy ice. Hike up to the base of the corner and rope up here. 

Screws and some rock pro if it's early season. Pickets work well when the top is snow covered.