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Button Hole
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Early Access
Routes in South Formation
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Arch Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Button Hole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cross Stitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dreaming in Color T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Electric Sky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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ELO T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Granite Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Granite Beach Headwall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hibernation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lima Bean T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Origami T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Payback S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Southwest Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Stonebridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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True Grit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 40.24453, -105.33163 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 599 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 20, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Button Hole is surprisingly good, clean, and well-protected. Start facing left in the chimney with some finger locks and stoppers, and at a huge chockstone, get turned around for protection on the opposite wall. At the top of the chimney, it opens up. A few Camalots in a horizontal to the left with long slings provide the protection you want to feel safe backing out of the chimney and stepping across left to a low angle ramp with a crack. Head up this ramp to the top of the rock, and belay on a big boulder.
To descend, Gillett suggests going to a 4th Class chimney, but a 100' rap lies directly across the rock on the SW face 30 meters away.
Location
On the back side of the Button Rock, there are 2x climbs, a 12c, and a 5.7 very near each other. These are best approached by heading left from the trail and around the 'front' of Button Rock more so than going all the way around it past the other climbs to here.
A few cairns mark a reasonable trail around to them. Precise directions are tough, but when you reach a straight-cut, clean, 24" chimney, you have arrived at Button Hole.
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