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Routes in South Formation

Arch Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cross Stitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreaming in Color T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
ELO T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Sky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Granite Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Granite Beach Headwall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hibernation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lima Bean T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Payback S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southwest Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stonebridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
True Grit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: D. Levison and Wendy Knickerbocker, 1994.
Page Views: 278 total, 2/month
Shared By: XOG on Jan 23, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Excellent route with 3 cruxes and two rests and some variability in opinion as to the relative difficulty at the cruxes. It may depend somewhat on the fact that for the 2nd two cruxes, there is different beta potential. I personally find the 1st crux to be the hardest once you know the route, but probably easier to onsight than the 3rd crux.

Anyway, this is an excellent route. A little runout with clean falls in 2 or 3 places, but well-thought out bolt placements. Use of a long runner on bolt #5 may help to prevent rope drag up higher. Don't forget to admire the views of the diamond or to check out some of the surrounding boulders.

Protection

8 bolts, triple bolt anchor. Some runout after bolts 5 and 7, and clipping the anchor is difficult, but the fall lines are clean.

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