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Routes in South Formation

Arch Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cross Stitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreaming in Color T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
ELO T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Sky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Granite Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Granite Beach Headwall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hibernation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lima Bean T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Payback S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southwest Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stonebridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
True Grit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: D. Levison and Bob Ratliff, 2002
Page Views: 415 total, 3/month
Shared By: XOG on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a nice route. The upper section climbs a narrow (2-4") quartz dike almost like a ladder on incut but smooth holds. The climbing up this feature is unique, fun, and of 5.10 difficulty. The crux of the climb comes lower, moving past the 2nd bolt. While the lower crux is also fun, the rock quality is less good. Beware of crumbly smears. The start is easily located just to the left of the classic Granite Beach, on the S.W. face, at ground level.

Protection

There is ground fall potential reaching the third bolt on easy terrain following crux moves past the roof, but with questionable rock quality in places. Note: The route has a mixed sport-trad variation which avoids the crux moves over the roof and the runout to the 3rd bolt. Start a little bit right at the base of a dike feature that joins the main line of the route for the last 15'. Climb directly up moderate, protectable terrain to clip the 3rd bolt, skipping the first 2 clips.

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