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Routes in South Formation

Arch Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cross Stitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreaming in Color T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
ELO T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Electric Sky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Granite Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Granite Beach Headwall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hibernation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lima Bean T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Payback S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southwest Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Stonebridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
True Grit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Description

Sport, trad, and bouldering are all found at this rock, with potential for new routes in each category. The rock is massive granite, which can be crumbly in places but is overall of fine quality. Crystals and sharp edges can be somewhat hard on your tips. Granite Beach and other routes with Southern exposure catch a lot of sun and can be a warm hang on mid-winter days. Electric Sky gets less direct sun. The preferred descent from the summit is the 3rd class route on the NW side of the rock. No known access issues. The first pitch of Granite Beach is a classic 80' sport line (12a) here. Do this and you'll want to come back!

Getting There

The South formation is over 160 feet tall and is at approximately 7884' elevation. See the directions for the Pinewood Rock Area for driving and trail information to the saddle between the two formations (N 40 deg. 15.630 min., W 105 deg. 22.259 min.).

From this saddle, the face of the South Formation that presents itself contains the route Electric Sky, beginning approximately 40' off the ground near a pine tree. This face also contains three scrambling ascent / descent routes of varying difficulty. The obvious gully is 4th class, but beware of the chockstone halfway up (if still there), which is crumbly and dangerous. A short hike to the left of this gully is a recommended 3rd class route to the summit of the South Formation. From there, one can descend still on 3rd class terrain to the base of Electric Sky. It is also possible (lower 5th class) to climb directly up to the pine tree at the base of Electric Sky. Routes on the SW face of the South Formation (Granite Beach, etc.) start from the ground and are easily approached.

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